FYI I just finished talking to Borla. They have moved their offices and no longer offer custom manufacturing. In addition, they do not carry any round mufflers that are 4" in diameter. Borla suggested Stainless Work in Ohio, but they don't have what's needed. SW has a 4" dia., 2.25" inlet/outlet that is ~30" long, but it would probably be a little loud. I have calls into Waldron & Silvertone.

Dell, the car is an absolute Beaut! While a grand wouldn't be a major issue it might be hard for my Scottish roots to justify for a part that is out of sight when it would still look correct from the outside & be functional.

Ahh I see - Actually what I see is nothing is easy when is comes to restoring a 1932 Packard. One question always leads to another one or more. So I can see that I'm going with a diameter of 4", but not having the original muffler does some one out there able to provide me with the length.

I've been in contact with Waldron. My 901 was upgraded to a downdraft carburetor in it's distance past. They have a sample for a "1932 with a 1933 exhaust system". Their sample does not match the angle of the flange of my 901, which slopes about 15 degrees when compared to the floor. I've given them information about the angle of the flange and waiting for them to get back to me.

Thanks to all for the info that you have provide.

I'm getting ready to work on the exhaust system from the exit of the manifold back. In the boxes of parts that I got with the car there is a round muffler (5" by 35" with 2 1/4" inlet and outlets). The muffler brackets on the car are 4" in diameter. What diameter muffler did the 901's have and did they have a resonator?

Thanks for the heads up. Is that the same as re polarizing?

I installed the radiator hoses, added water with Cummins anti-corrosion for protection, dumped in 5 gallons of gas, sucked gas up to the carburetor and then tried to start the engine. After several failed attempts I began to trouble shoot the non-starting problem. I eventually determined that the cork gasket, which was rock hard, for the glass sediment bowl was allowing the pump to suck air. A new gasket was made & installed.

After a few cranks the engine started, but ran a little rough. The oil pressure is probably too higg as it is ~ 20 psi at idle and climbs to 50 when rev'd up a bit. The rough idle settled out after a few minutes but seems a bit too rough so I'll check the timing and maybe look at the carburetor as the source. I ran the engine long enough so it got warm. It had a oil leak at the inlet of the filter. It also did not seem to charge when it was rev's up slightly.

I've ordered the No-Rosion and test strips and will replace the coolant when it arrives. I've also tighten the fitting on the oil line and hopefully the leak is history.

Next thing to tackle will be the exhaust system - need to figure out exactly what I need and how best to approach it.

Again thanks for all of the advise and words of wisdom.

TO ALL OUR SERVICE MEN & WOMEN, VETS HERE & GONE THANKS FOR YOUR SERVICE AND THE SACRIFICES YOU AND YOUR FAMILIES MADE!!!

I want to thank everyone for their inputs of advice. I'll be ordering No-Rosion Cooling System Corrosion Inhibitor and the test strips. I've installed the hoses and will fill with water before starting. If all goes well the water will be drained and coolant set up with the No-Rosion system.

Based on the photo on No-Rosion web site, the test strips appear to be the same as what I use on the RV so I'm looking for to seeing them. i think I'll order MSDS sheets from Cummins & No-Rosion.

I turned the engine over yesterday (no spark plugs & gas) using the drill (about 30 seconds) then starter motor and had oil pressure. There was spark so I'm figuring that when I get the No-Rosion it should startup.

Thanks Again To All

I'm getting close to where I can start the beast up. The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner and he started it briefly (about 6 plus years ago). Over the years that I've had the car, I've shot oil in the cylinders and turned it over by hand using the hand crank takeoff on the crankshaft (spark plus removed) . I was thinking about using a large electric drill motor to turn the engine over via the hand crank takeoff to get some oil flowing before actually starting it. I'm interested in what others think about this approach and how many times should it turn over. Also, will I be able to see any oil pressure?

I plan on filling the radiator after I know I can get it started (I'll only let it run without coolant a for less than a minute). What should the radiator hoses and clamps look like to be period correct (a Napa P/N would be great)? I have a question as to what others use for coolant. I was thinking 1:1 antifreeze and thought I would put in some DCA4, which is a anti corrosion additive recommended by Cummins for their diesel engines.

All thoughts and other approaches welcomed and would be greatly appreciated.

The electrical was finished and checked out. There is a problem with one of the horns, which I'll trouble shoot in between things. The Steering wheel was completed as described above. I use a single phase gloss black for the final coats when painting. The shine was toned down with a rubbing compound.

The driveshaft arrived from Driveshaft Specialists (San Antonio TX). It took longer than expected as they broke some of their tooling when making the flanges. I needed to return the flange that bolts to the rear end as the rear end's nut stuck out to far, but it is now installed.

The repair on the left rear tail light made it through the horrors of plating and is now installed. I wasn't happy with the plating job on the stone shield and had them redo it (no cost as they agreed it wasn't the best of jobs). The shield is now installed (see photos to see how it was mounted).

The bumpers were worked on and are now on their way to be plated. It seems to be getting closest to get in and start the beast. The wife has informed me that I better not start it without her being present as well as several friends and neighbors. This it would appear to be either be a time of glory or a crash and burn affair with some embarrassment for the writer/mechanic.

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Will, look at https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=15743&forum=1&post_id=158353#forumpost158353