Dave & Dave,

Thanks for the measurements and pictures. I'm going to use 1/8" copper tubing to make the the oil line and will send it out for plating.

Dave (32model901) the pictures help a lot in showing me how to layout the stuff behind the dash. It would appear that some of hardware is for a turn signal (I think I remember a previous post by you on this). I'm somewhat confused by the two cables, see pic circled with red and blue. I figured that one is for the speedometer, but not sure about the other. Also, where does he black cable, circle red, come into the inside?

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I'm guessing that if you have kept account of all of the gallons of gas you put into the car since it was restored, you could calculate the how horrible the mileage the car has been getting.

A little LOL.

Hope you had a great day.

Dave,

Thanks for getting back to me. I'm buying the rear end section of an extra driveshaft that Dave (32model901) has and he is going to take some pictures for me.

I decided to go all the way to the cowl with the panel board and have already made a pattern. I'll be picking up the board next week from a shop near me.

I could however, use a measurement on the OD of the oil line.

Really appreciate your help and support with my project.

With all the glass in and most of the exterior trim on the car it looks like all one needs to do is get in it and drive away, but there is still a lot of work to do before that happens.

Dave,

Thanks for the information. I went through some pictures I took of a 1001 and found one of the oil pressure line. It comes off of the block and has several loops in it before it jogs off to the firewall. I can't tell what the OD, but this would seem to take care of engine body movement and would be simpler for me to handle.

On another note, but on the same subject, I'm getting ready to install the panel board (PB) on the firewall before the dash goes in. Should the PB go all the way up the firewall to the cowl or does it terminate before it gets there?

Again Thanks For The Input - Marty

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Something doesn't appear right. The nut appears to be inside the drum too far. While I have not seen but only the wheels on my 901, I need to ask are you sure that the wheel has the right bearings and races installed?

Also, my model 440 Channel Lock pliers fit the inside nut and don't protrude past the washer and work great for holding the nut.

I'm getting ready to install the dash and to finish of the linkage for the carburetor. I have several questions and a request for some photos. The car was changed from an updraft to down draft carburetor in its previous life. The assist I could use is as follows:

1. Could someone out there take some pictures of linkage of a '33 for me
2. What is the correct OD for the oil line from the engine to the firewall & is it painted or plated
3. What is the correct routing for the electrical wires that come into the engine bay from the interior (Pictures would help)
4. I assume that if I get an exhaust system for a '33 1001 it should fit?


Thanks for any and all help.

In my post "Front Wheel Bearing & Nuts on a '32 901" on the subject, I was able to use channel lock pliers to hold the inner nut. The jaws on the pliers also covered a major portion of the washer. I then used a second set of channel lock pliers on the otter nut. You need to be able to hold the the inner nut/washer combination so they don't rotate otherwise, you'll shear off the small tab on the washer, which is critical to assist in keeping the nut from turning.

The way I usually adjust the nut on bearings like this is tighten the inner nut fairly snug to set the bearings, then to back it off, then to just barely tighten it, then I back it off the minimum to get the post on the nut to align with the hole on the washer. Note that you can flip the washer to give two different positions for hole alignment.

Thanks for the great information. Right now I'm waiting to get back several bids. I'm also trying to find someone local to do a new driveshaft. The U-joint on the spline end looks great it the other end that is a problem. I'll PM you and find out what you have.

Dave,

Thanks for contacting Fred. When I called them, they were already closed. I'm checking with some of my car buddies here in town for a good place to get a driveshaft made that would use the newer style of u-joints.

Hope you have a Merry Christmas and a Healthy & Happy New Year.

I've finished with the U-joint that connects to the spline/transmission end of the drive shaft. I now I'm working on the one at the rear end of the shaft. It is loose and shows signs of wear.

What are my options for repairing or replacing the U-joint?