Sanden is the way to go without question and I mentioned that would be the best option to the original poster. I have decided to replace my Lehigh with one--and maybe most of the entire unit with something else as well. More information will be coming if it works.

For those not wanting to convert to 12v or give up any outward semblance of originality or the era appearance, compressors become a problem. Almost everything else under the hood can be made to look appropriate but not a modern compressor.

As an additional question, I am wondering if anyone here has ever tried a Sanden on 6v. Specs say minimum clutch pull in is 7.5v but other car forums report some success.

Very true and can be done. Two problems arise on early compressors--those with the mechanical clutch connections designed for an "on and stay that way" condition are not designed to catch the sudden load repeatedly and frequently & start to slip and overheat in some cases, or the mechanical links break in others. The other condition on early piston type compressors arises where the build up of high side pressure in the system averages when cycled off and then all of a sudden, compressor turns on and the piston has to move against it. If not designed for it, then a tremendous load is applied to piston, valves, and other components and something eventually breaks.

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This is pretty much the way things have been since at least the early 90's and maybe even earlier. Lower end aftermarket systems used the clutch as soon as compressors became available with robust more heavy duty units but factory system cars up until the change did the constant on-reheat the cold air-style temp control. IMHO, that is a superior system as there is no humidity change as happens when the clutch drops out and suddenly thawing moist air is blasted into the car.

Mostly because of fuel economy numbers and trying to squeeze the last drop for the fleet averages, most US companies almost overnight adopted the cycling clutch. I am sure cost of components had something to do with it as well since the clutch system is much simpler with no POA or assorted similar temp control valves and plumbing to worry about.

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As to the R12 to R134 change, I'm glad you have had success but there is a big issue with oil compatibility. 12 uses a mineral base and 134 uses PAG or Poly Alkaline Glycol. The two are not compatible at all and mixing will destroy the effectiveness of both as well as prevent microscopic droplets being carried through the system to lubricate other items. Since the oil does pool in various areas, it is almost impossible to get it with vacuum alone. Usually a drain of the compressor and a system flush is needed as well.

134 also has different pressure and temp curves. While most modern systems are over-engineered and won't be too adversely affected, those with marginal condenser or evaporator capacity will be. Straight 134 is not as efficient as 12 so at equivalent pressures is about 10 degrees warmer but there are some approved products that can be mixed in to bring to almost the same level.

My 56's are also tight and does need a rubber mallet. Not sure I'd want to loosen them too much or might pop off with any wheel flex or potholes.

I don't know if you have driven Packards of that era before but starting and acceleration in high can best be described as leisurely -- particularly if comparing to later Packard models or a modern car. The motor does sound as if it is revving and doing nothing because there being only one gear, essentially it is a straight piece of metal to the wheels and all the work is done by the torque converter while picking up speed.

It is also possible the long sit has resulted in valves sticking causing an issue. The harsh shift could be normal as the transmission was not designed to be shifted when in motion and when doing so, the timing and pressures are not regulated properly. Slipping and harsh shift can also be caused if the throttle linkage is out of adjustment causing improper pressures, and of course if the high range clutches are worn. If the trans fluid smells burned, I would look into that possibility. Packard53 makes a good suggestion in downloading the Ultramatic information. There is a trouble shooting guide there that lists some causes of various symptoms you or your mechanic can check.

Park is a mechanical function. When you move the lever to park, the linkage pushes a pawl against a spring up into mesh with a toothed gear preventing it from rotating. When you release park and go into another gear, the spring pulls the pawl out of engagement so the gear can turn. It sounds as if either the long sit has varnished up the shaft or pawl to the point it is sticking, something has been bent and is jammed, or else the spring has broken or does not have the strength to pull it down. The pan can be removed and all is available within view to see exactly what is happening.

Am sorry to hear the battery brain didn't work out. Was there a specific problem or just overall didn't work as advertised. Am curious if something could be changed to make it work better or overcome the deficiencies.

Unfortunately, it appears nothing much is available for 6v remote control operation--at least I haven't found anything else. Just like air conditioning, 12v has a lot of options and 6v next to none.

For those who have 12v, Watson's Streetworks has several solenoid setups with different actuating methods that looks promising--made for the streetrod crowd . A little pricy though if you want the remote fob because that setup is separate.

As Owen_Dyneto mentioned, most Packard trunks of that era were flocked on the sides and with some kind of mat for the floor. My 47 is a brownish color and a 51 I had in high school was more grayish.

This site has the flock materialhttp://www.donjer.com/index.htm but as Ross mentioned in another thread,https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=58518#forumpost58518 forget the applicator and after the glue is applied and ready, just throw the flock by the handfuls into a small fan, appropriately aimed.

There have been several threads the last year or so on AC for that era cars. You can do a search of the forums for air condition, AC, etc etc. Basically the answer is yes---but can get costly and complicated. There were never any factory units so finding and installing one can be ruled out.

The mounting and style is not really a problem with an aftermarket unit as some will look older style and come with universal mounts. The issue is no one makes anything but 12v units anymore. The first choice would be do you want to convert to 12v or if not, what options you would have in powering it. Some have suggested dual batteries or 6/12v independent circuits. Both of those options get complicated.

Possibly you could you find an old 50's unit from a junkyard and it be made serviceable. With phase out and limited availability, the cost of R12 today and the certified person to install is almost prohibitive for a larger system. Makes R134 and costs of converting to use it look good. Converting an old unit may be an issue in itself, but in most cases doable.

Compressors are another issue. R134 with smaller molecules needs a good crankshaft seal which may not be available on an older unit. Actually, mechanical parts for older compressors are becoming hard to find. Some places do work on them however so depending on brand, all is not without hope. Depending on your engine, driving the compressor may be another problem since Packard didn't make an extra pulley available for the 356 crank. The prewar cars with that engine and AC used a pulley off the fan/waterpump. The other engines would require some changes in vibration damper but one poster has found some options there.

Most old compressors (if it is serviceable) of that era did not have a clutch or if they did, were not designed to cycle on and off frequently and that is what units today require for temp control--so another hurdle. The Sanden compressor would be the best option but again it is 12v. Some have said it MIGHT work on 7v--but I haven't heard if anyone tried. Even if it does, still the problem with a 12v blower motor. Some 6v heater motors are still available but not really powerful enough for the AC application.

Another style bore gauge, a caliper & a micrometer. All these are available at any good tool outlet in various quality ranges & are worthwhile additions to any shop.

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I think Brian might be on to something there. One I have clearly shows the FAS and Rochester, NY. There is no Wagner number either. It looks like a 0, 1, and maybe an 8 separated by about 1/4 inch stamped on the front.