Speednuts and most likely the round style although some rectangle types have been found. Book calls for a total of 6 so probably 3 on each script. There should also be a thin rubber washer used as a water and dust seal under the nut next to the trunk metal.

Be very gentle in removing the speednuts and try to relieve the bite of the tangs on the stud before trying to remove it or there is a good chance the stud will break off the potmetal. I have found that using the 90 degree pointed end of a scribe usually works to get under one of the tangs and lifting it up slightly is enough to free the nut from the stud. Unless the speednut is badly rusted the tang can be bent back down for reuse.

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Engine weight from the Nov 1952, Vol 26 #11 Service Counselor. This counselor contains the mechanical specs for all models as built when the 53s were introduced. There is a slight discrepancy with the SM info.

Total weight data is from the 1953 vehicle registration specifications sent to state DMVs. This info was posted by another member elsewhere on the forum..

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I believe the rivets used on the Trico washer are 1/16" diameter semi tubular rivets and a dedicated tool for that size seems to be somewhat expensive for a one time use. McMaster-Carr does carry them though. https://www.mcmaster.com/6667A001/ If there is no minimum order involved then Hanson Rivet https://www.erivet.com/product_detail.cfm?itemNbr=HT-350 has the same tool for approximately half as much. If the rivet turns out to be smaller than 1/16" then Hanson Rivet also has tools for smaller diameters but those are much more expensive.

Another possibility MIGHT be a sash rivet tool which is less expensive. The caveat is that sash rivets appear to be 3/32" in diameter. That would mean the slightly larger diameter end that fits those rivets would probably make the tip too large to fit in the end of the smaller rivet. If the tip does not fit POSSIBLY it could be filed or ground down just a tiny bit but I don't know for sure. Amazon has the sash rivet tool if you wanted to give it a try.

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I would check the resistance range for the Kanter sender first to make sure it is working properly. You can also do the test starting on page 44 of this service counselor http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html ... loads/SC/SC-VOL27NO10.pdf although not having a known good sender might prevent a conclusive answer when checking the gauge unit.

The King-Seeley gauges Packard used from 51-6 need approx 70-75 ohms empty and 10 full. Also make sure the tank is well grounded. There have been issues with improper sender readings because of paint or other compounds not allowing a good metal to metal ground connection if the tank has been removed and replaced. Several have added a small ground wire between the tank and frame by drilling a small hole and attaching a wire to the excess metal on the center flange at one of the tank corners. If you don't want to drill you could also figure some way to use the retaining ring holding the sender to attach a wire so it can touch directly to the sender mounting flange.

A few have said the FG97a Spectra senders as used in 57 T Birds and a few other Ford products in that era are the correct interchange. Amazon, Summit and several other places carry that sender. You will need to verify that the arm length and angle on any Ford sender you buy is the same as Packard used. Ford had several different size tanks and the arm length seems to be the main difference. If you get one with a shorter arm the reading will be off but if that happens you could cut the arm wire and add more length by tightly crimping a couple of electrical butt splice connectors to attach the added wire.

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If the pump is inline in a typical location near the tank with the mechanical pump still being used and the electric will be used for initial priming and the occasional turning on to assist in vapor lock situations, several have installed Airtex pumps. Those are solenoid types which will let the mechanical pump pull fuel thru when the electric is off.

Airtex has two pressures available in 6v and the pumps have 2 wires exiting the pump for connecting power. They can be hooked up for positive or negative ground. If the mechanical pump and filters are still present, the E8011 pump at 5-8psi will work because the distance and pushing fuel thru the pump filter screen or optional ceramic filter will lower pressure by the time it reaches the carb. If there is no mechanical pump or filter at all then the lower pressure E8902 pump at 2.5-4.5psi will be better. It more closely matches the original mechanical pump specs so the carb will not be in a situation where the float valve might be able to be forced open with the higher pressure E8011. Airtex is sold by most parts stores and also by Amazon.

Others have used the Carter P4259 6psi rotary pump which is a bit more expensive but quieter than the Airtex. It also can be hooked up for positive or negative ground. As with most rotaries, if the electric pump is mostly off and used only for priming or as an assist, when turned off the mechanical pump usually has difficulty pulling fuel thru a rotary. With that situation, in most cases a check valve in a bypass line around the pump will be needed. Amazon and many parts stores also sell the Carter pump.

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The vehicle number format is usually in two parts with a dash between them. In this case 1188 is the body number and 3015 is the sequence number which started at 1001. For your car that would make it the 2015th Six Business coupe that was made in the 16th series or 1938 model year. It was built on the 1600 chassis. In addition to providing the model info the numbers are important when looking up parts in the manuals. Most body and trim items would be listed as fitting the 1188 while most mechanical or chassis parts would be listed for the 1600.

Check out the 1938 model info page for some basic information. http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... ear&id=1938&ButtonYear=Go and for additional mechanical info the Oct 1, 1937 service letter Vol 11 #19 gives the standard specifications in effect when the model was introduced.

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They did go to a vendor transmission for the 55-6 models but I don't remember which one except maybe the same one Ford used. I believe I remember threads where people have said some of the trans Ford used also fit the 55-6 bellhousing bolt pattern.

Packard built their own transmissions thru 54. They did use the Warner OD unit as did many other mfgs but even those may have been licensed and Packard built. If Packard did not build the entire OD under license possibly the OD case only was a Packard casting stuffed with Warner components. Even though other mfgs used the R9 and R11 model ODs, cases did vary to fit the transmission.

The fixed contact can be bent a slight amount but they may be brittle. If the bimetal is moving and it's contact is touching the fixed contact and nothing is happening, there could still be a hard oxide buildup on the contact surfaces. It could be the bimetal is not making a good solid contact at 7 seconds and needs some continued heater time to bend the bimetal more to provide increased pressure.

If another go with a cleaning doesn't improve the time then you could try a small bend to change the position of the surface area where the contacts are meeting.

There are some original 229 socket based Flashers on ebay at fairly reasonable prices. To make the Napa 535 work the indicator light properly it needs a transistor change.

Here is a comparison between the screw type 229 and the 535 flasher along with information on the needed transistor change as worked out by another poster.

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