With engine running, Amp meter is always on charging side, even when Optima battery is fully charged. Otherwise, dash amp meter responds correctly when load is increased and or engine idle is increased. Checked running voltage which is continually fluctuating from less than 1 volt to as high as 9 volts. This doesn't seem right to me? Disconnected armature and field leads then even the battery lead from the regulator but this didn't solve the problem? Any ideas on what I could try next?
Thanks

Sent email to Tim at Daytona Carburetor. Thanks

For those who recall my previous threads on starting problems, finally resolved half of the problem, poor ground between point base and distributor base plate the other being massive fuel over feeding using subject carburetor. Have been have advised to go to a Carter as they also have had over feeding with Stromberg carburetors of this era. Feel I have an excellent under standing of this model Stromberg and have been unable to resolve problem. Even went so far as to start engine with fuel line plugged and air horn removed so I could observe what was going on with fuel level, (I know this is dangerous and one has to be careful and prepared in case of flair up). First, manually filled carburetor to inspection plug. Let set for and while to be sure there was not a leak, level stayed consistent. Even removed economize valve and installed a plug. Both the idle jet and main jet air bleeds are clear so no siphoning. Main jet ID's are even slightly below spec. at .048". Accelerator pump circuit works properly. Has anyone else had this problem and been able to determine source of massive fuel feed?

Thanks,have purchased a new 6 volt coil and "hot wired" it. Had the same problem as with the NOS installed coil. So I'm thinking it's not the coil. At this point I'm at a loss why the engine went from smooth running to very rough and finally stopping. On re-start, which is now very difficult,engine now goes immediately to very rough to stopping again. Thinking the timing chain may have "jumped" but setting the TDC mark on the damper pointer the rotor lines up with the #1 post on the distributor cap, so I guess that's not the problem. Keep coming back to the grounding of the points but have checked the distributor a number of times to ensure proper grounding. Have another set of points and condenser so maybe I should try them?

Recently got my 1940 356 Packard running after many problems with ignition system. Took it out for test ride a few miles or so and all went well. Returned home and set manual idle at 1100 RPM's an let run. Wanted to do this test before taking it out on highway to be sure engine would preform at higher RPM's for an extended length of time. Kept an eye on temp and oil pressure and they looked good. Then after about 10 minutes the engine started to miss badly and was unable to keep it running. Like before this seems to be an ignition problem. Checked everything and even pulled distributor reset points and tested to insure breaker plate was grounded (even put jumper from upper distributor body to engine block) all to no avail. Tested coil at coil wire with KV tester which showed only 8K or so. This seams low, however, primary winding post checked out at 1.2 ohms resistance and the resistance from primary to coil posts was 8K. These readings seem OK or are they? One thing I have done a number of times was forget to turn off ignition key for a few hours. This resulted in the coil getting very hot around 160 degrees. Could this oversight result in a coil failure? Maybe this is what happened when I left the engine running at 1100 RPM"s? If so, would think this would then be a common problem when outside temperature is high and one is stuck in city traffic. Vapor lock is not an issue as having the same problems when trying start engine in morning with electric fuel pump. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the info., looks like a big job. As my brake pedal only moves an inch or so before engaging the brakes maybe I don't need to check the back brakes now. The pedal feels very firm as well. My concern is why the parking brake locked up on the drive side and can it happen again? When the rear brake drum is removed should the rear bearing be replaced as well?

Had car out today for first time an the driver side parking brake locked up. Jacked up car removed tire loosened up brake shoes with an old brake adjustment tool which I haven't used probably in 30 years. Beat on drum a bit with rubber hammer but couldn't get brake drum off. Brake cable freed up so did brake shoe. Not sure if this repair is permanent. Would like to inspect brake shoes and cylinders, is a mechanical puller of some type normally used to get the rear brake drums off? Don't remember having to use a puller on my old 50's cars.

Thank you and to everyone who posted suggestions to help me figure this out. Now we can actually drive this beautiful car and start working on other issues which by comparison to my introductory experience of the ring, bearing and valve job, should be less challenging and expedient. Thanks again.

It's alive! Repaired old plug wires, 2 were dead, and re-installed. Engine started and ran for about 10 minutes then died. Surprised it ran at all, as looking under car for a lock washer found spring and carbon tip for distributor coil post! Re-installed and ran great no more dying. Then attached overdrive wire to distributor and wouldn't start. Went to remove overdrive wire from distributor and wire to coil fell off lug at coil terminal! Goes to show that good test results (ohm and voltage tests) on this wire were not conclusive, must have been just a few strands hiding under the insulation holding it on. Repaired and now starts as is should. Looking for roll of spark plug wire to make up new set as KV readings, although much higher than with carbon wire,still vary. Some wires are in the 20-30KV range while others are in the 8-10KV range. By the way, the distributor is a 1954 with the vacuum advance turning the distributor body not just the base plate. The old (non reinstalled) ground wire connected the point base to the plate base, not to the distributor body. As you can see from my previous post the mini voltage across the points is lower than it is across the points and distributor body. So I think were good unless there is something I not getting right?

OK, here's the latest. Battery voltage now 6.29. Voltage at stationary side of points 6.26 (points open). Voltage at each lobe (points Closed) .055-.080. Then put jumper wire form stationary side of points to distributor body .116 volts. So, if I under stand this correctly, this part is OK? Now the plug wires,was unable to find wire spark plug wires so had to go with carbon fiber wires. May have installed them wrong, get 5.0 ohm reading on coil wire and 14 ohms on the longest wire. When striping wires for installation removed outer and insulating cover but left on inner cover to protect very tiny carbon fibers, wonder if this maybe the source of my problems?