Unscrew the suppressor mounting screw a few turns and I'll bet she'll spin like she should. It has gone in too far and jammed into the armature.

Uh, folks, I really don't think that interior is all that original. I'm, guessing it was done in the seventies.

Note the tan and somewhat shiny carpet in the back.Not hogshair. The windlace is covered with broadcloth, not a patterned cloth. Welting around the edge of the seatback is cloth, not leatherette, color of the bedford cord on the seats is odd relative to the other colors, and the cushions are very rounded and lumpy--something that never happened at the factory in my experience. Also, I have some real doubts about the woodgraining, lovely as it is.

I still love the car, but truly don't think that it is an untouched original.

Judging from the cap and the cast base of the vac advance it is a 53-54 unit. We would still need the number to be exact as there were a couple different ones of those.

LF Napa 7536, RF 7537.

LR 9025, RR 9026

rears will each need a tube adapter, NAPA 7828 to mate to the 1/4" brake tubing.

Pleased to meet you and glad you enjoyed the cars. Packard info guys--and gals--are always welcome to stop in and flog a Packard or two.

The scenario I had in mind was a heavily optioned car (air), little gas in the tank, and, uh, large people in the front seat.

Because the front and rear suspensions are interconnected some of the effects are a little counter intuitive.

During most light load conditions, the auxilliary bars are actually pulling the back of the car downward to keep it level. So, unless very heavy loads are often carried helper springs on the rear shocks are not a plus. The leveler has to wind the aux bars down even tighter to achieve a level condition.

I would take those helpers off and then see how she sits. If still down on the left then you can install a longer pin in the left front suspension. There is endless discussion of this elsewhere in the archives.

If you already have #4 pins and the car still sits too low, the best expedient is to install helper shocks on the front. They will push the front of the car up slightly, and the aux bars will push the back of the car up to level. That way the effect of a fairly weak helper in the front is magnified.

If you put something heavy in the trunk and listen carefully as the car levels you can tell when the leveler stops pulling the the back of the car down and starts pushing it up. TL cars ride their very best when the load is such that the aux bars are doing almost nothing. They don't ride too well at all when the car is heavily loaded at the front and the aux bars are pulling the back downwards.

John, if that breaker did not reset in about 2 seconds it is not going to.

Well, lets go back to first principles: When the engine is cold, before you start it, if you open the throttle slightly the choke plate should snap lightly and completely shut. Opening the throttle allows the fast idle cam to set as the choke snaps shut.

If all goes according to plan, the mixture will be enriched enough to start a cold engine, and the flow of air will pull the choke plate open slightly. As the engine warms, hot air is drawn over a thermostatic coil that is located behind that black plastic choke cover and it relaxes. That allows the choke to further open and the mixture to normalize.

If your choke does not snap shut when cold you will have all manor of starting difficulties.

Uh, Pat, I said to do it tighter, not looser.