It shouldn't matter what jets you have in it, there should be no significant flow from the main jets at idle. Either the float level is too high, the fuel pump is overpowering the float valve, or your air bleeds are plugged.

There is a little tab (or at least was) on the float arm that kept the float from dropping too far. There is a float drop measurement in the manual. There is no way that needle should drop out of the seat--you can easily check that while it is apart.

That said, did run into a weird one lately: intermittent flooding. Needle was beautiful, seat was beautiful, float level carefully set. Turns out the needle was too small a diameter for the needle seat, and in certain conditions as the float came up the needle would jam cocked in the seat. Only found it by holding the carb top in normal position and slowly working the float up and down. This was supposedly a matched set. (Not from a Packard supplier--this was in a Willys, but there are bad aftermarket parts everywhere.)

Not quite sure what you are looking for as there were dozens of bulletins that touched on the Ultramatics. PAC sells a nice compilation of all service bulletins year by year. Do you have a specific question?

I'll be there C4G 19-21. Will have the 56 Packup there on Wed and Fri, the Carrera Panamericana car on Thurs. Stop in and say howdy.

Pretty sure. Have never seen any balancing cuts on an I8 damper.

Cold and sitting still I would set them to .009 intake and say .015 for the exhaust. Just do the valves for each cylinder in firing order starting with #1 at top dead center 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4. Rotate the engine clockwise 1/4 turn CW before proceeding to the next cylinder.

I am personally a fan of final adjustment hot and running which is not too difficult with a pair of thin wrenches and some leather gloves. In that case the setting is intakes .007 and exhausts .010. That will make a nice quiet and reliable job.

Thanks for the heads up. Fascinating period and a unique "end run" by a small player. Been following the Churchill interviews in "Turning Wheels" with great interest. Have ordered my copy

Just run a point file through those points. Likely they have oxidized from sitting and are just barely conducting if at all. The 1/0 cables are the original size and will do just fine.

As to your voltage drop, that's a little harder to figure till you find out what's been changed or added. I suggest you just continue hot wiring to the coil and leave the key off till you find that out.

Just install it and start the car as usual.

Please save your money. Can guarantee that will not work. GM resistance rating runs opposite to Packard. Check the X-ref for multiple alternatives.