setting timing
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I have an 41 120 with the autolite distributor. The only way I can see to set the timing is to adjust it by using the screw on the vacuum advance to set the timing, Is this correct?
In finding the number one firing position to set the timing on your distributor and oil pump when you have remove both, which I have done, is to: Turn the crank shaft till the timing mark lines up with the pointer. Next see if you can turn valves number one and two. If you can: beautiful. Now, turn the crank a little until the crank is at the bottom of the stroke. The valves should not have opened since this it the power stroke. At the bottom of the power stroke the exhaust valve (#2) will start to open to expell the exhaust. At the top of the same stroke when the piston is at the top of its movement, the intake valve (#1) will start to open to suck in more gas. When installing the oil pump, the flat piece of metal that drives the distributor should be horizontal, or in line with the cam shart. Luckily I did this with the head and oil pane removed. (I would like to thank the members who advised me of the ability to remove the pan with out removing the engine again( THANK YOU! The gears are not straight, so you will have to be one gear to the left or right to get to the proper position. Start with engine at the number one firing positon, mark the bottom of the oil pump gear when it is in a horizontal position in relation to the camshart and start one tooth to the left or right of where you should be until the rotor on the distributor is at the number one firing position. I guess this is simple stuff, but it is nowhere to be found in the Packard literature
Posted on: 2015/9/20 19:31
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Re: 41 120 oil pan removal
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Everyone,
Thanks a million. I was all ready to pull the engine. Your advise will save me a bunch of time.
Posted on: 2015/9/3 9:46
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41 120 oil pan removal
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Do I have to pull the engine of my '41 120 to remove the oil pan?
Posted on: 2015/9/1 16:48
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Re: 1941 engine and transmission removal
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I can see the forward nut on the left K member but I still have not been able to get a socket on it. I did remove the lower bolts and nuts on the K member. I will try to remove the trans and engine with the upper portion of the K member still bolted in ( I don't think I can reach it anyhow. However it looks like I will have to remove the rear shift fork so it clears the upper part of the K member.
Posted on: 2015/8/13 16:49
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1941 engine and transmission removal
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I have a 41 120 which I am trying to remove the engine and
transmission as a unit. The front motor mounts are easy, it is the mounts on the transmission which I need help with. I removed the snubber and disconnected the drive shaft. I removed the shift linkage from side of the master cylinder, and took off the horizontal shift rods. Can someone please tell me what has to be removed from the back of the transmission where it is attached to the frame? Thanks in advance
Posted on: 2015/8/10 20:02
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Re: Upholstery fabric
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If you live anywhere near Chicago there is a fabric store at 2121 W 21 St. which sells odd lots of fabric. I did my 51 300 for about $100.00. It's 30,000 sq. ft on three floors and you have to go through the bins on your own and drag it downstairs. Beutiful 52" wide grey broadcloth for the seats 7.00 sq. yd. headliner beautiful ratsfur velur-
whole bolt 5 yrds, 8.00( not a yard, for the whole bolt. and they have leather at very reasonable prices. Not a nice naborhood, not open on Saturday ( sabath). Wonderful find
Posted on: 2015/7/17 22:59
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'41 120 steering wheel removal
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I have a 41 120 which needs to have the steering wheel
refurbished. I am thinking of filling the cracks with bondo, painting and clear coating. Good idea? I am having a difficult time removing the 3/4" nut in the middle of the steering wheel. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Casey Rog
Posted on: 2015/1/30 17:16
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1941 dashboard square knobs
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I acquired a 1941 120, I am in the process of removing the square knobs on the dashboard. Can someone please instruct me as to the correct procedure for removing the knobs without the little cut-out at the bottom of the knob. I do not want to damage the knobs since they are very brittle and extremely expensive to replace. Thanks in advance
Casey Rog
Posted on: 2014/12/9 15:42
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1940 vs 1941 120 rear fenders
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Sold my 51 300 and just purchased a rusted out 1941 120.
Are the 1940 and 1941 120 rear fenders interchangable?
Posted on: 2014/8/23 7:52
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