yes, you will need to use the large pilot bearing from the 49-56 engines.

Regarding your heat riser: the remnant of your counterweight indicates that it is in the up, or closed position. That puts a lot of heat on the carb. Take two small hammers and tap the shaft forward/back, forward back till it is free enough to turn. Turn it down and then unhook the spring in the front. In the summer you can easily live without it.

To use the later engine you have only to transfer over the mounting details from your old engine: water pump, front plate, motor mount arch etc. Gives you a much larger pool of engines to fish in.

It is a 3/8-24 bolt, about 1 1/2 long if I recall.

Take a 3/8 diameter punch, stick it into the heavy washer and use it as a lever to flip that washer out of its recess. Then you will need a 2 or 3 armed puller to pull the flange off. Screw your nice new 3/8 bolt into the shaft to keep the threads from being damaged as you horse the thing off.

You will discover that the original seal will have a death grip on the housing, and you may need to heat the end of the housing with a small torch to get it out.

Normally I remove the entire tailshaft assy and do the job on the bench as the frame is way too much in the way.

A Wagonaire would have saved a lot of work on the tailgate area but good ones are too expensive to cut up for a novelty and would have not given me the lines that I wanted. The base for this build was very reasonably priced--a California desert car with an interior like toasted bread crumbs but a body that needed zero rust repair. I was able to use the grill and bumpers without replating.

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Inboard screw affects only 3-4-5-6. Outboard only 1-2-7-8

A day in the life at Speedwell. First, if you must use a floor jack to remove your Ultramatic, please place a piece of wood under the pan.




Second, who knew that relentlessly allowing your Ultra to slip could produce used clutch plates that resemble modern sculpture.



Third, a few of you may enjoy this little 63 Lark pickup we ginned up for a customer.

Very interesting that the V8 gears were a mod of the earlier gears. I can surely understand that as they already had the tooling for forming the teeth and the earlier pumps were trouble free. Are the overall length of the gears the same? Also, very handy to have the specs for the shaft and housing bore. On the earlier pumps, the input shaft had a much longer bearing area. I'm pretty sure that an extra overhang loading from driving the vacuum pump was a chief factor in accelerated shaft wear. What I've never figured is how some cars escaped this til high mileage and some tanked at 20K.

Chances are excellent that bushing will work.

On one car the intermittent fuel problem turned out to be a dead wasp that would would block the pickup tube and then drop out again after the car stopped. The other case, and perhaps more pertinent, was when the tank had been relined and some of the lining came loose.