After about three years of fiddling around with the car it is running. In the process I fixed things that were obviously broken (e.g. leaking front shock, passenger side king pin), put new tires on it with the correct 16" rims, gave the car a complete tune up (e.g. taking apart the distributor, check tolerances and cleaning it up) and installed any new chrome pieces I had laying around from my 20 year "virtual restoration" process. My last few months were spent taking the front clip apart while it was off the car and then putting it back together. Now to get it licensed and on the road to give it a couple of shake down cruises. Next up are to get a new oil pressure sensor, a new brake light switch and chase down so minor electrical issues.

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Pre 1940 Packard 16" rim 5 x 5" bolt pattern. Motor wheel stamping 16 450 569. 4.5" wide at bead seat, 3 3/4" center hole diameter - this will not fit a 1940 Packard with a 3.25" center hole. No dents a straight rim with no rust.

Selling it for what I paid for it: $100 plus postage or pick it up in Eureka MO.

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1940 Packard passenger car rim. 5 x 5" bolt pattern, 16" diameter, 3 3/8" center hole. Motor Wheel stamping 16 550F 572. Note the bead width at the bead seat is 5.5" the more common width for 8 cylinder 1940 Packards is 5".
Rim has been sandblasted, primed and painted in satin black wheel paint.
Asking what I paid for it $125 plus postage or pick up in Eureka MO.

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Set of four 16" diameter commercial wheels for a 1940 era commercial Packard. Motor Wheel stamping on inside of wheel is 16F 550 572.
Note these are the 5 x 5.5" bolt pattern and they have the larger 3 7/8" center hole. To my knowledge they do not fit the standard passenger car hubs (much to my chagrin they certainly don't fit my 1940 160). I started stripping the paint and surface rust off them before discovering they don't fit are just in primer.
Asking what I paid $400 for all four plus shipping. Shipping will be extra. Can pick them up in Eurkea MO.

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Ron Carpenter has been writing a series of articles on a 1940 Packard he is restoring in the Southern Wheels Magazine. For those not familiar with Southern Wheels Magazine it is a monthly car magazine full of old car part supplier ads along with some articles on repairing old cars and some reprinted technical articles. You can access the earlier Packard articles from Ron on-line athttp://www.southernwheels.com/.
A subscription to Southern Wheels is a bargain at $12/year. It is a great resource to have if you are restoring old cars. Ron covers rebuilding the front end, fixing sheet metal, putting in a new coil that looks like the old one etc. Good stuff.

The answer to my question regarding the use of fuel pump heat shields was found in the July 2021 issue of The Cormorant New Bulletin published by Packard Club. Jim Case wrote an excellent article on the mitigation of vapor lock. One way to help avoid vapor lock is keeping the heat away from the fuel pump! I will just have to deal with the shield in the way!

Good news on the 1940 Packard belt line molding clips. You can get the correct Auveco 1231 clips from Restoration Specialties in Windber PA (on-line as well). Apparently they have some old stock since Auveco does not list these in their current catalog.
The clips are the exact clips used on my original unrestored 1940 160. I had the same problems that others have had with the other clips mentioned above. The other clips are too loose in the hole, they are too thick to slip onto the belt line molding, they are too wide and need to be modified. You can find them on-line from Restoration Specialties for $1.10 each but the on-line postage is quoted as over $20! Just call them at 814-467-9842 and you will only be charged their postage minimum of $12.50 so be sure to order some other things!

Any opinions or experience on the necessity of installing the fuel pump heat shield on a 1940 Super Eight? I have one but installing it will make it really difficult to service the car's fuel pump.

Looking for the driver side swing down trunk rack arm for a 1940 Packard 120 car. Refer to attached photo of rack with missing arm. Thanks for looking.

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How to repair the door latch safety tang. Both of my front door latch plates had broken safety tangs. These were a new safety feature for 1940-1942 and were designed to prevent unlatched doors from swinging open on turns. The door would only open 5/8" without turning the handle. John Ulrich Packard Parts remanufactured the safety tangs for $20/each. To replace them you need to remove the latch, turn it over and pry up on one end of the bottom plate holding the safety tang on. There is a peened over part of the latch that holds this bottom plate on. You can bend this bottom plate enough to remove and replace the safety tang. Note that on my latch I had to file the new tang a bit so that it popped out on the latch face like it should. If you are missing the spring I found that a spring from a retractable ball point pen cut down to 1/2" worked pretty well as a replacement. To reassemble just lightly tap the bottom plate back into place. Once mounted on the door frame it should stay in place so no need for any extra securing.

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