In a previous thread I was inquiring about putting the Executive/Clipper body on a rotisserie. Thanks to all those that responded. I am now ready to roll the frame out and clean it up & paint it. I had some scaffold screw jacks sitting around since I build my pole shed during Covid & decided to put them back to work. The back end is held up by 1/2 the rotisserie frame, the front by the frame I built. Need just over 29" of clearance for it to roll out.

39rollson, thanks!

I rebuilt the rusted out trunk mount. took the other one off also for inspection, not rusted out but 1 cup of dirt in it, just a matter of time I expect.
soaked the body mounts in evaporust, cleaned & rust treated the areas on the body. A light blast in the media cabinet then painted them up & installed them. tacked them back into place & surprisingly the body lifted easily without the trunk pan flexing, I'm feeling more confident now.

found part of my issue when I pulled the HSS off...........in addition to the one being rusted out It only appears to have been tacked or spot welded to the trunk floor. The other tacks/spot welds along the sides have come loose. Once I rebuild the body mount and tack it securely, I will try again to raise the body with the hoist.

Thanks all, thanks HH56 for the link to Kegan's blog, pretty slick that set up. I do have the body opening well braced, I hope. Alas I already purchased a rotisserie.
nice catch on the sign PackardDon

39Rollson, thanks for the photo, that is how I envisioned it working. the front is no problem, but the trunk body mounts just seem to have so much movement, the trunk floor flexes/rolls & seems to want to deform the trunk lid line. I'm hesitant to continue that way. Maybe if I sandwich some heavier material top & bottom across the trunk.....

Has anyone ever put their car on a rotisserie?
I am attempting to do that but the rear body mounts in the trunk, I'm not sure is the correct support place. the trunk pan really seems to want to flex, a lot. What little rust the trunk had along the seems has been repaired. The glass is all removed, the shell is stripped down to nothing. I have searched but haven't come up with any photos showing this ever done. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated.

Bad Chad, suggests going to Princess auto & buy some boat rollers. cut them with a chop saw. I might try that for my car. I believe the thicknesses are 1/2" for the thin ones & 3/4" for the thick ones. I did some research on this a long time ago. The wiser more experienced fellows may correct me.

I hear you, outside my area of expertises also. But we are learning. Pete in Langdon must have something salvageable for

I remade the bit inside of the thick red square. Managed to salvage the curved bit. It’s 3 pcs. Center section, then the two sides were bent & then welded to the center bit. But the whole thing could be. Metal of appropriate thickness, form the center part first. than maybe even separate pcs for the edges if you don’t have access to a large brake like I don’t.

This bracket I just fab’d up a bit to replace the rusty but
The others I didn’t buy, I fabricated them. The seat support had the middle section replaced. I fab’d that up too. I’m working on my 56 Executive hardtop
C2C doesn’t have the floor sections anymore? They show them still on their website?

I just finished going down that rabbit hole. C2C's floor pans do require some work, but I found it doable. The scary part is what hides underneath. My body support braces needed some rework, the seat support required rebuilding.

I do not mean to sound discouraging. My words are meant to be encouraging, 1 small project at a time will bring it back together. Good luck & full steam ahead.