Good on you Ken.
SS muffler: I had one custom made and fitted to my 120, 1602/1191, about 30 years ago and it still shows no sign of age.
Acid moisture from the combustion tends to make a non stainless muffler most prone to attack after short runs. My previous non SS mufflers struggled to last 5 years.
Tinny sound probably comes from thinner casing some may use, not a problem with mine, even though it should be 6" longer (their press was too short). Pipe diameters also make a big difference; 2.25" header for hot gasses, 2" or 1.75" tail for cooler gasses seem to work well, quieter too.

I've tried polyurethane bushings for steering box mounts in a Triumph 2.5 PI car; it went from velvety but soft to feeling like a wooden block in my hands. Removed them promptly and replaced with rubber as per original design. Velvety but firm response resulted. I suggest original design as suggested by Owen is much better.

First I've heard of this method in my 68 years. Much better than watching white walled tyres reflect in body panels.
Thanks for the info.
Please keep sharing such good ideas.

Stuck valves is a problem eased by, for a brief while, using un-cracked petrol such as racing fuel or aviation-gas. Packard service letters mention this when prewar new Packards were moved around the shop.

I think the arm is a push fit on the splined shaft as on the 1938 120.

I prefer the view with ww with perhaps a strong moulding pin-strip, rather than the advert for wheels.
Emphasis of wheels is common, subtle changes and the body form is a better choice if you seek peoples' interest.
Good that you like genuine features; a Parts Manual will help you with these details, body chop completion suits.

Hi,
My 1938 120 has used sealant for decades, though I prefer to also use a cork gasket. To remove sump try turning steering towards full lock, it is a fiddle but works with mine.
If doing a full oil change/clean-out consider 'Caltex Delo 400' oil for mixed diesel/petrol fleets. For decades on mine the exhaust valves tended to stick open, this with Delo 400 is now very rarely the case. Also see DrewLA in yesterday's forum on oils.
Happy motoring.

Hi. Your spare wheel mounting sounds like my 1602's side mounts, if so: The top arm takes a shaped round headed 'bolt' which braces the wheel outwards by pushing it's head against any one of the bolt holes in the wheel. Adjust the vertical 'rake' of the wheel by turning the 'bolt' in or out.
The lower arm retains the wheel inwards by pulling a shaped casting onto the wheel's center. This 'bolt' has a locking center in it's head. No rubber evident in mine.
If you like I could photograph mine for you.
Merry Christmas 2013 A.D. Arthur C.
PS Yes, for your 'unsure' item.

Some 16th series 120's have stronger rear springs for the driver's side; could this apply to yours?

Most engine reconditioners should stock these standard freeze plugs. In the 40+ years of use by me my 120/1938 has used several, but that's in New Zealand!