Hopefully you aren't taking off the tears as well. Maybe the least amount of fun I've ever had working on a car

@HH56 Much like you when he speaks I listen! I've begun cataloging both of your tips, and general knowledge even if the topic is not something I'm
Currently dealing with

Well, I'm pretty sure I found the problem. And looking at the rivets and thinking back to my symptoms it The first engagement of the lights as I would twist was decent illumination then after that it was very hard to get them to illuminate. And as you look at the rivets in order of contact the first or if it is not nearly as oxidized as the second up.

The first engagement of the lights as I would twist was decently illumination then after that it was very hard to get them to illuminate. And as you look at the rivets in order of contact the first or if it is not nearly as oxidized and the second

In the pic, the first rivet to see contact is on
The right

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Howard- those images are absolutely AMAZING- thank you so much for ALL information!!

I cannot take the credit for the Idea to use grinding compound, this advice was given by Ross and found here on the site, below is a direct quote from Ross

"My favorite method to clean up those rheostats and all the little contact discs down around the center of the shaft is to daub them with valve lapping compound then work them back and forth for a while. Afterwards blast everything clean with brake cleaner and then lube with a touch of white lube. Works really well"

Hi Howard - When I turn the headlight switch to engage the dash lights they turn on, maybe not right away but at some point in the revolution of the knob they turn on and then will flutter and turn off if you turn a little more. This is impacting all interior lights - Due to the wiring being in such poor condition (especially once it leaves the cabin into the engine bay) I have disconnected the headlights so I don't know if what I am experiencing with the switch also impacts the headlights.

I'm leaving now to try to find some tiny allen wrenches to remove the knob (maybe eye glass repair tools?). Then get a small needle nose in the notch of the bezel holding the switch to the dash to see if I can get the switch off. Then use some grinding compound to clean them up and hope for the best

As always, thank you Sir!

I started the 12v conversion yesterday, I can see why many discourage this as it takes a lot to do this correct for the average Joe who isn't well versed on the Packard nuances. I've read BigKevs build post a few times and its been a great help, Thanks Kev!

If anyone sees me doing anything wrong or has any help on my current open items below your knowledge sharing is much appreciated!

Current open items
#1: the turn signal indicator seems to have play on either far end of the up (right) or down (left) movement. I need to figure out how to disassemble to column to get to it.


#2. the headlight switch cuts in and out - based on what I've read it seems like the rheostat may need cleaning. Trying to figure out how to get the entire switch out. Looks like I need a very small allen wrench to get the knob off and the very fine needle nose to fit into the slot of the bezel the mates to the dash to turn (loosen it).

#3: oil sending unit: I found a new unit for a 55-56, I wondering if this an option for my 1951? From what I have read i need a unit the kicks of at <20 psi.

#4 Oil / fuel Sending units: I still haven't identified a viable fuel sending option and I cant find the oil sending unit referenced here on the site. I and am wondering if a oil sending unit with 20 psi, 1/8 in.-27 will work PN ALL99059 (All Star)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all99059

#5: I'm trying to find a starter Solenoid because I can't find the one listed in parts X for sale

#6: Wondering is the 12v Cig lighter elemen from a 55/56 senior will fit

#7 Still undecided on which 3 wire 10si Alternator, due to the pulley - need to find one with v groove 7/16 pulley I believe

I've read that the resistor in the 51 instrument panel will work with a 12v input. I will be testing with a 12v source in and see what comes out and report back with my findings


Is there anything unique I should stay aware of for the ignition connection, or anything else for this conversion

So far I have accounted for the below:

- External Ballast Resistor PNAL-795(Duralast) Autozone-$5.69

-Ignition Points PNDR1074MV (Duralast) Autozone $5.95

- Condensor U1511 (Duralast) Autozone $13.49

- turn signal flasher
- Coil IC12 (Echlin) NAPA $42.99


Bulbs
Area / Candle Power (cp) / Bulb #
Map Light (6cp) 90
Glove Box (2cp) 57
Ignition Switch (2cp) 57
Turn indicator light (1cp) 53
Direction signal (2cp) 57
Oil pressure n (2cp) 57
Selector indicator (1cp) 53
Instrument light (2cp) 57
License Plate (2cp) 57
Park and turn (front) (21/3cp) 1157 (amber)
Stop and tail (3cp) 1034
Trunk (6cp) 98
Back up (32cp) 1129?
Headlights H6024

I do not know what PN this set is but I have this as well

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i can no longer justify the cost of these mirrors on my car, they cost a pretty penny and I've some other areas to tend to before I can
Justify putting these on - - they are spectacular and in brand new condition

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Are these the mirrors that a picture was
Wanted of?

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@HA- This is very helpful info and very timely for my upcoming project!

Howard - AHA! I knew I had to be missing something - had me scratching my head.

Don, unfortunately I didn't end up winning the auction for emblem - Thanks much for the offer!