Yes, it's .017. Just wasn't thinking.
Bill

Yes, it did move, so I had new bushings installed on the distributor shaft.
Bill

Yes, these look like the ones I've been looking for.
Thanks,
Bill

Also had problems for the past two days, now mysteriously this site is back online!

Just had 1954 model IGE4502-E distributor rebuilt and want to set new points. Difficult to set with feeler gauge as when I tighten down screw to hold points, the gap closes. There is an oblong screw head in the base plate but seems to have no effect in moving plate, therefor, the point gap. Did the original points have a base extendsion or something to extend an rest against this oblong screw to make and hold the .007" point set when one tightens the hold down screw? An I off base here or what?
Thanks,
Bill

Thanks for the feed back. My inclination at this time is to wire brush the head and block, then use a machinist straight edge and a feeler gauge. I've read that if any gap along the bottom of the straight edge is more than .006" then machine work may be in order? My other question regarding the head is, as I'm not sure how well I will be able to see up inside the water jacket in the head, should it be boiled out?
Thanks,
Bill

Good advice will follow. Have had some conflicting recommendations on head gaskets, some say best to use the original type gasket others say the new one are better? Obviously will look for cracks on head an block around valve area are these easy to see or not? If head is not warped should it be resurfaced or just clean along with the block surface. Also, as this engine has been relatively in active for the past 16 what about the idea of, as long as the head is off, poring some varnish solvent on the piston and squriting some down the valve stems to get at the guides and lifters snd turning the engine over a few times? If so, any recommendations of which type to use?
Thanks,
Bill

Considering replacing the head gasket on subject engine. Seem to have slight water leak as get a large amount of white vapor smoke on start up which clears up when engine warms up. Had a slight head gasket leak which I seamed to fix by tightening down the the head bolts, head bolts were only 45 psi that area that leaked. This engine has only had about 600 miles on it in the last 16 years and has a total of 38,600 miles. The compression test wasn't all that great, range 75 to 95 lbs. Hoping valves and rings may free up with some running hours. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill

Howard, Thanks again for your help. Have sent this information on to the person repairing the radio, and yes, he told me it does have motor tuning which works great. I can get the model and serial number from him if this would help you get any additional information. This is some radio, the box itself seems to be made of copper. I collect old wooden radios consoles and table tops and was impressed with this radio when I took it out have it repaired, this is an 8 tube set and believe it was made by Philco radio company.
Bill

Currently having the subject radio brought back to life. Sent the radio itself out but left the dial,station presets and control knobs in the dash. The radio now told plays but restore is looking for a solid state vibrator for durability. Anyone have any sources on this? Also,on the dash, assume the chrome knob on he left is the on/off volumn, the knob on the right does turn the station dial. What are the two black up and down switches one on either side of the dial? Also, how do the station presets work?
Thanks