Very likely as it needs a solid, smooth seal in that area so that should be properly repaired.

All god advice! I've never had to prime an oil pump on a Packard but certainly not a bad idea to do so.

Probably too vague as someome's good condition might mean something else to others. Lots of photos would help but probably your best bet would be to go to the Hagerty Car Valuation tool which might help.

I understand that but if you are using any originals, they should go back into the same lifter bodies from which they were removed.

I typically keep the gap to the low end and, of course, if the valve seats need grinding, that must be done first. Also, when reusing lifters, it is very important that they go back in the same position where they came from. I’m not sure what Ross and the other experts think but I’ve always had the bottom of the lifter bodies ground with a slight radius too, especially if regrinding the cam.

Quote:

My 1952 had crackers on at least two cylinders running through the valve seats.

It has to be a Napa that has a machine shop (some do; most do not) and it was located very near my outdoor storage in San Jose, CA. Where my shop is now in Oregon, the closer Napa in Redmond does not have a machine shop (they can press wheel bearings but that’s it) while the one about 40 miles away in Bend does and just recently rebuilt the engine for my 1965 Imperial LeBaron.

Looks great. Do you want to sell me one when you're done?

Some years ago my 1952 Henney-Packard Nu-3-Way had a couple cracks in the block which were repaired at the car's location without pulling the engine. A couple valve seats and cylinder sleeves were installed on the spot and at a reasonable cost by a local Napa shop with mobile equipment. Napa may not do that anymore but I am sure you can find a local shop that can do so.

With several accessories on, it will always show discharge at idle so presumably you revved it slightly by a couple hundred RPMs.

I really can't remember for sure what my own 1940 Packards had for voltage regulators but I know the more recent ones used vibration insulators on the bolt holes which the regulator you have seems to be lacking.

Of course you realize that with an alternator, you won't be using the regulator at all or you will be using a different one, depending on whether it's built-in or not.

P.S., I learned long ago to always copy what I want to post before hitting the submit button as I've lost things too. That way you can just paste it back in rather than having to start over!