I don't have documentation, but I think originally those were very precise fitting flat head wood screws so that the finished surface was smooth to the touch. That all goes out the window once the parts go to a plating shop.

Those screws should be attaching the mechanism to the wooden side bar so there are a couple of options. The quick and dirty method is to cram some wooden match sticks into the holes using carpenter's glue, drill a pilot hole, and run a screw in using soap as a lubricant. The second method is to detach the metal parts and glue dowel stock in place and then drill a new pilot hole for the screw. When drilling for the dowel stock either a depth stop on the drill bit or a protective metal plate should be used to prevent damaging the canvas top.

You can remove one of the remaining screws to verify the screws are securing the metal to wood.

Walked into town the other day. If it's under 10 miles I walk and I am curious how that will be if the temperatures go down to 20 below as they forecast this winter (that will keep the termites out of town).

Here is a news article. Sorry for the fuzzies, but I need a tripod.

I still don't know to whom the plant is a source of embarrassment. The city and state that wrongfully seizes property in violation of the constitution? It seems to me if they didn't levy so many wrongful evictions Detroit wouldn't be such a colossal dump.

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I think I know the car in the PA auction and who was making that cock and bull story about parade cars. Here are pictures of Truman, Dewey, and a factory photo to verify authenticity. I think the accessory is more a nuisance but makes for good conversation.

And note the crooked bumper on the Truman car.

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That is not a 29 radiator. Probably 39 as they had the shutters. Looks like a 39 Su8. More likely a 120.

The upholstery issue is best approached by looking at cars that have a good job and finding out who did the work. The top guys will be more expensive in most cases, and money poorly spent doesn't work.

For the poor power feed to the coil question make up a jumper wire and hook it directly from the battery to the coil the same way as a car thief.

Junk ignition parts are certainly a possibility as the cool down indicates but look for a possible short circuit as well. That can be checked with a test light. If it doesn't flash while cranking there is a short in the distributor or junk parts.

For fuel starvation pull a plug after cranking and no start.

When you say - rebuilt distributor - does that mean it was sent to a rebuilder who put it on a SUN distributor machine? They are out there.

If those systems check out, do a compression test. The rings may be sticking.

Periodical care? Is that like taking care of magazines? I don't miss the destruction of grammar in that business.

Anyway, I assume you have one of those temperature guns? I bought one on sale for $9.99. The temperature throughout the core should be consistent. You also can remove the sylphon (bellows) and inspect the top of the tubes. I don't know who advised against removing the radiator for service, but if the above diagnostic indicates blockage the tanks need to be removed and the tubes cleared with a rod. A cheaper method is to cut open the lower tank only and proceed thus.

If the radiator checks out, then unfortunately the block probably should come off and be inspected, but before that remove the water jacket at least and examine the condition thereof.

Oh, one other item: The lower radiator hose should warm from the radiator toward the engine. If it is warming from the engine to the radiator that indicates blockage. When the engine is warm there should be a uniform temperature decrease from the top of the radiator to the bottom. As a guide warm up your modern car and observe the difference between the radiator intake and outlet (if they are accessible).

Oil filters were an option on legacy GM engines into the sixties.

The best studies I have found on full flow filtration comes from the railroads where they found that diesel engine wear was greatly increased with lack of filtration. However, the difference was so vast compared to gasoline engines I'd have to see a similar comparison for road going diesel.

One anomaly with Packards is that, with the proving grounds, they moved to full flow filtration but dropped it after the "senior" lines. That sort of supports the old timers wanting the most oil pressure they could get into those motors. Start pushing a Su8 to the limit and number two rod will launch into orbit.

One thing about those bypass filters being used on expensive heavy equipment is they filter down to very small micron levels. An important consideration given the sumps carry gallons and gallons of oil. What I don't understand is why engine builders haven't discovered rectification. Even Bugatti recommended heating oil on the stove to remove dissolved water.

The owner is a scam artist. He set up a website to collect deposits for future units. I don't know if anybody was gullible enough to send him money. It's a case of false advertising. America's favorite five letter scam artist does the same thing and is constantly being sued for refunds on his junk real estate.

They made 475 Imperial convertibles in 1968 and he has two, but both are goners.
The work bench and compressors are good deals if you live nearby. Those buggies are interesting but like in Dr Zhivago - who wants to breath horse farts?

I always liked the 53-54 Studebaker sedans. I don't understand why Nance didn't.

Every time I throw something out I find myself needing it. Even an old paint can lid. But shoot me if I ever get as bad as that TV show.