I was going to ask the same thing but Howard beat me too it! It looks like a slider to me too. Otherwise the handle would be centered.

Quiet, not quite! Anyway, yes, they were very smooth and quiet. Even my 1940 110 was running so well that when I was once pulled over for no brake lights (burned fuse), the officer had one foot on the running board and a hand on the open front door and asked how well it ran. I said, “It’s running now!”

For some reason, the pumps were originally held in using bolts with drilled-through heads so that they could be secured with wire through the holes. I guess with the phenolic washers that would break if tightened to much, this was found to be the best way to secure them. Today with the little usage that most of our cars get, that’s probably overkill.

I bought the tool that Howard showed and don’t think it can be some with out it as both sides of the latch have to be moved, which the tool does. The business nd looks something like this one from Amazon.com

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There are supposed to be phenolic or a similar insulating material and there should also be washers of the same material under the steel washers on the bolts.

Did you use the insulators in the two mounting holes? Without them there is too much slop that could effectively lessen the throw of the lever to the cam.

Your NOS one may just have oxidized contacts, a very common thing so disconnect the battery and try cleaning them. However, Napa can order the voltage regulator and I have one that I bought a while back for my 1951 that looks identical to the original Delco-Remy (but without the logo), however, I cannot recall where I bought it.

Be mindful that Packard used both Autolite and Delco-Remy which use different mounting holes. One NOS one you should is the Delco-Remy type but Autolite had one hole on one side and two on the other rather than at the ends.

My 1964 Ghia Imperial, being a coachbuilt car, had a number of aluminum upholstery panels but it was a big mistake as all the places where they touched steel had corroded into large holes due to the electrolysis between the dissimilar metals when a little moisture, such as humidity, was added. I’m not saying to not do it but just be aware of that and maybe using some grease between contact points would help.

I’m sure that electrolysis isn’t the proper term but it should get the point across.

I’ve not owned one in many decades but maybe someone else here can help. I may have some of the bolts, though, as I parted out a couple but at the moment I am in California and my shop is 700 miles away in Oregon but I’ll be there in a few weeks. In the meantime, check the rear fenders which I believe are held on in a similar way.

Beautiful job! I would be proud to have an interior like that, especially knowing I did it myself. I took the easy (and expensive) way out by sending my 1956 Clipper’s to SMS but I sure wish I had the time and talent to have done it myself.

As for the springs, I would try to put them in if possible as they also keep the handles from being rattly by giving a lot of pressure against them.