I really wish you would stop saying "junk" this and "junk" that. Those are political statements and this is not a political site.

An air inlet wouldn't make sense for the starter switch as it's air comes from the intake manifold so I suspect the hole should have a press-in plug. My 1951 has a nearly identical carburetor but unfortunately it is some distance away so I can't run out to check.

As I recall, my 1941 had only a single dual element bulb and was factory wired for turn signals even though it did not have them and all my 1940s were the same. I don't recall if there was a separate single element bulb.

You didn't say what you're working on but testing a condenser is possible but requires a condenser tester, an expensive piece of equipment that probably by now has gone the way of the dinosaur although some automotive electric shops might still have one if they work on older cars. Since I grew up with a grandfather who was a radio/TV repairman in the vacuum tube days, he had one that was not car-specific but it's long gone now. Even if you had one, you would need to know the condenser's specifications to be able to know what the readings mean so better to eliminate it as a possibility by just replacing it.

Very good quality! As for dating it, these Checker Model Y cabs are throughout and appeared circa 1938 and I also spotted a very late Pierce-Arrow along with several other cars with headlights in the fenders so likely very late ‘30s.

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Yes, those are the ones and most auto parts stores and even hardware stores should carry them.

I’m back home now as of a little after midnight this morning but here’s a recap. The goal was to get the transmission assembled and installed but the incorrect rear seal slowed it down to just getting it assembled. Reading back a ways in this blog, you can see all the difficulties I had in getting the overdrive unit apart but putting it back together was quite easy and took only a few minutes.

For the individual rollers shown here, I used a wide rubber band to hold them in place for assembly and it worked well for that but it not only wasn’t tight enough to hold them in against their springs but also was too much rubber to leave in there to dissolve (as the manual says) so when actually assembling, I used a thin rubber band looped twice around it which did the job.

Then I placed the output shaft assembly over it, used some general purpose grease to hold the gasket in place against the adapter plate, then placed the housing over it all and loosely bolted it in place to be sure that the gasket was aligned properly before snugging it down and adding the output flange.

So again, should there be a seal/gasket under the governor and are the shift arms and top cover supposed to be painted?

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I can’t speak for 1937 but I seem to recall that all my 1940s and my 1941 had standard 1/4-20 license plate bolts with the square nuts.

I hope you found your taillight. I had a look for mine but then remembered that I had sold the pair several years ago.

Thank you, Kevin. Manual transmissions aren’t that difficult but I wouldn’t want to work on an Ultramatic as it would take so much research to figure out all the updates done over time and make sure that they are all done. In this case, it wasn’t a rebuild anyway as I didn’t replace any bearings but I did replace all the seals and, of course, it has new gaskets throughout.

On this kind of transmission, can anyone tell me if the top cover and shift arms should be painted? What else is left unpainted?