Good news -- I got my 31 started yesterday. After cleaning the carb and lubricating the air vanes and metering dish, it fired up!

Had great oil pressure, but one issue was the ammeter was reading a slight discharge as it was running. I think the issue is polarization of the generator. However I did notice the negative battery cable wasn't on too tight which might have something to do with it. Nontheless, how do I go about polarizing the generator? What I'm working with is an Owen Dyneto relay mounted on top of the generator, which has two leads -- one going to the ammeter/battery, and the other going to a sizeable fuse underneath. Is the volt regulator located in the same box?

Great, thanks very much for your insight Ross.

The question du jour is how much do I retard the spark at startup for a 31 Packard? The owner's manual doesn't mention retarding the spark at startup, only that it should be pulled out 1/4" if going 5 mph or so. My instinct tells me though I should retard it somewhat then go to full advance as the engine rumbles to life. Any thoughts?

Thanks all -- Owen was correct; I was interested in the ground strap between the engine and the frame, not the battery cable.

Can anyone tell me how and where the engine ground straps are positioned on an early 30's Packard?

Thanks - I have a 31.

Yes, I saw many a supplier of decorative meshes, but haven't seen the Packard style. It looks like a square and diagonal design all woven together. Anyone know what that style is called?

Does anyone know who supplies the highly decorative stone guard mesh used in early 30's Packard stone guards? With originals as scarce as hens' teeth and repros costing $1600, I'm in the mood to try to build one myself.

I'm working on 1931 myself and getting ready to start it. A couple weekends ago, I filled the crankcase with fresh oil, removed the plugs and turned it over by hand about 200 revolutions or so. To check oil pressure, I disconnected the oil pressure line that goes to the dash and confirmed, with a little oil dribbling from the line, that I was getting pressure. If oil is getting there, then I have to believe I'm getting it to the mains as well.

Assuming the carburetor isn't the source of the problem, it sounds like to me you have a problem with the automatic advance in the distributor, or timing is off a couple degrees. If you're sure the timing is good, perhaps the fuel bowl level was erroneously set during the carb rebuild such that as the engine accelerates to that 2/3 point and as it consumes more fuel, the level drops too much and is being starved for fuel causing the power loss.

Anyone know if Autolite 3076's have a threaded post, so that the bullet connector can be removed and the spark plug wires be secured with thumbscrews?