There is a 49 Packard convertible currently listed on eBay that has a " pneumatic clutch- not working"
I remember riding ai a 49-50 Packard Sedan back during the Johnson administration that allowed the gears to be shifted....I think...without operation of the shift lever.
Might be failed memory, but I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.
I am just curious for some information about the pneumatic clutch, how it operates and how difficult it is to repair.
thanks
RJR

Owen- Sorry to hear about your experience but would like to know how you incorporated the factory cooler with the aftermarket unit.
I opted to mount an aftermarket cooler for an SUV in front of the radiator but maintain the original cooler without connection to the trans.
I have used the aftermarket cooler on highperformance applications without problem but those cars used aluminum radiators and electric fans which may pull more air than the stock Packard fan.
Do you think the factory cooler would have protected the trans under the same conditions?
RJR

The power brakes( and steering) of cars from the 1950's were just that....power. There was no road feel that we are used to with newer rack and pinion steering.....and slamming the brakes or even applying normal pressure can launch you.
I have a 57 Lincoln with BTV and 55 Cadillac with Hydrovac in addition to the 55 Packard with BTV.
Going from a new car and driving any of them takes some care since when the brakes are in proper adjustment they will all " grab"
I think the comments by the other posters are probably your answer. If the BTV is properly functioning, the shoes matched, the drums new or properly turned and the brakes properly adjusted....the Packard should grab with little peddle movement. If it is not doing that, I would change the rear pads, adjust the brakes and see if that returns you to the " sensitive" brakes you had on your prior car.
I am still a bit paranoid about the BTV based on the horror stories posted and prior failures that I have experienced with the Hydrovac and BTV
Units on other cars. I have had wheel cylinder failure with new cylinders, sucking of fluid from the master cylinder of the Cadillac with a recently rebuilt Hydrovac and most recently loss of the normal braking function on the BTV fitted Lincoln when forced into extended stop and go traffic when outside temps approached 90 degrees. The brakes worked fine until the car began to get too hot and the brakes used too often. The pedal seemed to need a pump to get proper feel and was really sensitive if you were forced to hit the brakes to avoid pedestrian and people making sudden stops.
This is all primitive technology and since there seems to be no simple way to keep normal pedal location and replace the BTV on the Packard due to the underfloor location and 1/1 pedal ratio....you just accept the situation and adjust driving accordingly....and pray.

WHen I did my Caribbean, I bought the complete rubber gasket set from Kanter which included the rubber lacing for the fender skirts. I am pretty sure that all of the pieces from Steele Rubber Products and they will send you a listing of all of the rubber parts that they offer for your car....at no charge...if you give them a phone call.
I was able to salvage the original staples from several sets of skits that came with my car and picked out the best of them, cleaned and painted them and installed them with the 3m adhesive used to install the other rubber gaskets. I dry fitted them first for size then worked from the front edge applying adhesive until I found the holes where the original staples were located, punched small holes through the rubber and pushed the staples through the holes and tapped the staples tight on the back side.
It involved more work than just gluing or using pop rivets but was closer to original.
The long and short of it is that once they are installed....no one is going to see how you attached them.
I have used lots of parts from Restoration Specialties since they are good people to work with and are located a few miles from my home. I have no idea how their prices compare with Kanter( who also offer a catalog restricted to the 55-56 Packard) or Steele Rubber.
Since you are just getting started, I would suggest that you get catalogs from all three as well as Max Merritt.....and dig out phone numbers for Mike Dulinski and Tucson Packard.
All of the parts are expensive, but those folks helped me a lot.
Good luck. Just take your time and have fun.
RJR

Gentlemen- As usual I thank you for your help. The photos clarify the issue of the boot.....the tucking of the front edge looks a bit sloppy but if there was no strip to hold the front edge of the boot.....my current installation is correct. I asked this question largely because my 57 Lincoln Premier uses a strip to permanently attach the front edge of the boot which then pulls over the top and snaps in place around the stainless at the rear of the well and over the interior panels which hold the rams.
The question of why the top does not fully retract into the well with the lift cylinders connected will take a bit more work. The too has been a pain since first efforts to install the original top supplied by Gretchen Keppach. The top was not cut correctly but the installer made things worse by going crazy with a staple gun and ruining the top. By that time Gretchen had ceased producing tops and no other supplier furnished a top with the liner matching the interior .
As previously posted I was able,to have a top with the correct color lining created with the assist of Superior tops. It looks great when the top is up but on the first efforts to retract the top last spring....I cracked tte top frame.
That piece was repaired successfully but the top continued to retract with a twist which I intitally determined maynhave been caused by a bent ram on the passenger side top piston. I ordered and installed a new set of pistons secured from Hydro Electric. The system was recharged with automatic transmission fluid...and burped ...per their instructions.
The problem improved but has not resolved.
I will play with it some more......Ross says he won't deal with it but will fix my speedomer if we can coordinate schedules.
It will work....eventually.
Thanks again.
RJR

I am hoping that someone has photos or info on the top lashing straps and boot for the 1955 Caribbean.
I know that there are leather straps that assist in strapping the top supports to the panels that cover the top pistons which will help,pull the top into the well.
The boot has snaps that attach to the stainless strip that surrounds the top well in addition to snaps on the interior of the panels that hide the top pistons.
My question is whether there was a metal strip that holds the front edge of the boot to the rear of the back seat or the metal ledge behind the street.
I am still trying to figure out why the top retracts fully into the well if the pistons are disconnected from the top assembly but protrudes ( mostly on the passenger side) when the pistons are attached.
Any hints will be appreciated.
RJR

Since you have it up on jackstands, crawl under the car and try to maneuver the linkage by hand. The original lever on the transmissions- at least on the 55- had a bad habit of sticking in park. I believe Howard discussed this in a prior posting and indicated that there was a replacement offered to correct the problem.

I have been watching this thread for a while. I have a 55 Caribbean and found a battery at NAPA that fits the battery box and reproduction holddown perfectly. It is apx. 13 1/2 long by 61/2 wide and around 71/2 high.
I pulled the decals off the sides and aside from the square caps on the top vs round screw caps, it looks like something from the era.
Not exactly sure of the price but was not over $130.
Hope this helps.
If I can find the invoice I will supply the part number.
RJR

I have been using the American Classic radials on my Caribbean as well as my other old cars for over a decade. The new Coker with the side profile that looks like a bias ply might be an attractive choice for appearances.
I do not know what you plan to do with your car but if you plan to drive it with regularity and not just trailer it to shows, go with a radial.
Aside from lasting much longer than the bias tires for essentially the same money, there is no comparison when it comes to handling on the open road.
All you need for proof is to run into a section of highway with grooved pavement with bias ply tires ....particularly on a steep down grade in the rain to appreciate the difference. The underwear I was wearing were trash binned.
I know that purists will cringe, but I also eliminate the conventional headlights for halogens, install gas filled shocks, Petronix ignitions....and hide an MP3 player somewhere in the car.
There are enough antiquated parts ....like single cylinder BTV brakes and sloppy steering to make extended drives in old cars " exciting" without dealing with old technology that is easily restored to original for anyone who insists on purity. The lights and radials are the best upgrade.

Fred - you are right. Just a bad description of the Lincoln unit. The master cylinder and BTV are one unit mounted on the firewall....with a separate vacuum tank under the fender. The reason for the comment is that because the unit is firewall mounted, it is possible to install a newer dual master cylinder unit and power brake unit without having to move the air vent and play with a new pedal configuration to install a later model unit.
As I understand it, the 1-1 pedal ratio on the 55 Packard coupled with the limited space where the factory BTV is located has required the various configurations shown in various posts.
I would really like to have a dual master cylinder for the limited protection afforded by that arrangement . I would also like to have power brakes to deal with the weight of the Caribbean.
I guess my question really is whether installing a dual master cylinder under the floorboards for that purpose could be boosted with a new hydrovac system like we use on the Cadillac which could be remotely mounted.
I made inquiry about the Electro- Vac units that were suggested in some posts, but never got a satisfactory answer as to whether anyone had been happy with the conversion. I believe Howard raised questions as to whether such a system would provide needed braking if the engine stalled due to the pedal ratio issue.
It would seem that the Cadillac system functions well enough and it is all new parts....and might keep the pedal in its original position.
Any commments or hints will be welcomed..
Sorry for any confusion.
RJR