I don't know why they went to two-piece in '55

If memory serves, I believe there is a bit on styling the 55's in the Kimes edited book.

The author's take was originally they had planned to use the 54 Clipper back styling intact. When looking at the car in side view at one of the final reviews, it appeared to someone in mgt it looked unbalanced because of the new double bumper up in front.

They had to change it so elected to do the back double bumper to have the appearance of more mass. In 53 they had done a similar treatment in order to make that car appear upgraded from 52s so using essentially the same idea & some pieces, it was something that could be done quickly and cheaply on the 55 Clippers.

In 56 in addition to the new tail lights they were able to go back to the single bumper because of the new higher side pieces for balance under the tail lights.

I would try something like Windex but with anything, would first check carefully with a bit on something like a Qtip in a spot under the center piece that will be hidden if it messes up. The paint in the numerals may also be very fragile and flake out if treated roughly.

Believe the spring will be the one that works in conjunction with the knob you set the time with so will be in that area. Don't remember if that one pushes or pulls to set the time.

Glad to hear someone is working on the remote fill and hope you decide to expand beyond the original few. If you have the bracket solved, that looks like the hardest part so congratulations. One nice thing about those particular vented caps is with it being fairly large and metal, add in a little drill press work they can become unvented and reholed where needed without too much strain.

I know about work in progress. Started a couple of projects, but with my usual few hours of steady work, 5 months set it aside after losing interest cycle, neither have progressed very far. Gave a few samples away on one but haven't been inspired enough to make some needed changes yet to do much more with it. Fortunately mine are more in the "can it be done" category so hopefully your work will go better.

As I recall, hands should just pull off--although there is a slim possibility that unscrews.. Don't know what year I might have to check but if no one comes back with other suggestions, will look tomorrow. As to repair, once that other piece is off I think I would straighten the bent part and use epoxy rather than superglue to hold things. Also, IIRC the plastic is held on mostly by that center metal piece which I think has 4 or 5 tabs which go thru slots in the plastic. Once that is off, you should be able to clean things nicely. Will be interesting to see how much your face has faded once the real color is revealed under the center. A friends 53 Clipper I cleaned and refinished the instruments on had a surprising color under.

My Ranger pickup gets about 10 around town but does much better on the road on the occasions it gets there. One nice thing about today's cars is the mostly lack of fumes. There is the occasional converter stink but not like it used to be. I had the misfortune of being stuck in traffic behind an old GM product a few days ago. I could have run my car on the gas fumes his maladjusted heap was putting out. Those days I do not miss at all.

Probably not a bad idea but not sure how you'd do one and still be able to fill in that location without it being a major pain. The airtight membranes I have seen have been under a large removable cover held on with the various clips. Maybe you could form something cylindrical along the line of a glove finger or bellows and sealed to the bottom of cap. That could protrude down into the fluid and still be flexible to allow for expansion and level changes yet still come out with cap for filling and checking. Fred has mentioned possibly making an electronic level indicator, so perhaps a membrane could be incorporated with that.

IMHO, if a Packard period accessory remote fill kit were to be reproduced, it would probably even sell to the purists. Have a fill cover for the BTV and another, if different, for the manual setup. I think a thin flat accordion type membrane could probably be incorporated into that which would be out of sight under the lid. As many of us are approaching geriatric status, the kit would make life so much easier and for all of us, there would not be too many excuses for not noticing the fluid level disappearing.

Packard has nothing specifically saying to replace the fluid in the OM or SM. Only to check level every 1000 miles and clean or change the power brake air filter at 10,000.

It has been suggested by several that changing every couple of years probably wouldn't be a bad idea for cars that sit long periods or don't get driven much. The DOT 3 & 4 fluid tends to attract moisture and without the benefit of getting hot regularly to "boil" it out, could deteriorate fairly rapidly. Did you have any solid chucks floating around in yours when it was changed?

I hadn't heard the lard before but why not back then. It seems to have been the go to for lots of lube needs--wagon axle bearings and lots of sliding applications. I think it & butter might have even been a first aid salve for burns & wounds.

There was an episode of a TV show where Jay Leno was showing his garage and demo'ing his stationary steam engines. Said they had been modified for his display with oil cups added. Asked why, he said the original lube method was lard or pig fat. If you ran out, then go slaughter another pig and throw more pig fat on the bearings. Noted there was a shortage of pigs running around outside and he was afraid if he did find one, the place would smell like a restaurant and he'd have all the people around coming over there and would have to open a diner.

Agree with PV8 about the oil and checking the bore. If the valve moved freely before, then as O_D mentioned, probably not a major worry. I would just lightly clean any varnish or similar deposit off and verify no burrs and it slides smoothly.

Apologies for not paying attention to that eHow site not mentioning use of any oil. Most machinists and their supply sites do recommend the use of lapping oil or a good quality honing oil.http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=396&SID=7952cf3e94dad5b91ce7f0e5eae0071b

For this use, I would think 3 in 1 would be fine but if polishing a shaft seal or bearing surface would go for the thinner or more refined good stuff.

Here is a brief description of crocus cloth & uses.http://www.ehow.com/about_6622789_crocus-cloth-used-for_.html

The important thing is you do not want to use a final grit so aggressive or hard it leaves microscopic scratches on a finish. Most sandpapers with emery or aluminum oxide or similar, even though a very fine grit, are hard and will actually roughen a precision surface.