One thing I've noticed is age and sometimes bulb heat on the original gels sometimes makes them very faded. For anyone needing to renew those, hobby shops have an excellent selection. They are transparent so the opaque white has to be placed under but turns out very nicely. Amber and a light brown is also available for those needing it.

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I think several are waiting for info from Mat and maybe another poster who had a recent failure.

With the really questionable quality of the compensator valve being supplied from ??? as shown on this threadhttps://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=64104#forumpost64104 and the gasket issue mentioned starting herehttps://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=61201#forumpost61201 which may be present even in a professional rebuild, there is room for a question or two about the kits.

One thing also is the compensator valve spring some suspect as part of the issue with valve is still not included in a rebuild kit or apparently available from the vendors. I can understand it not being included in the original kits because the units were relatively new and springs fresh but after 50 years, one might suspect it too is tired and needs replacing.

One thing we've found recently is the BTV rebuild kit reservoir cover gasket totally blocks off the bleed port from the space between liquid and vacuum seal if put on the normal way. It appears to be for a cover having a channel in the lid or one with the tube that drops into the port.

I haven't seen one of your kits in quite a while but apparently all vendors must be selling the same or similar one. Wonder if that is something you could look into. Reversing the gasket would work but it might be nice to have a little note in the kits to do that or to cut the opening to make the port connect to the reservoir. With the port blocked, any fluid seepage has no place to go except into the vacuum side or if there is a leak on that side, nothing to pull except fluid since relief air is blocked. If another reason that shouldn't be done, then lots would be interested knowing.

The thread where this was discussed is here.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=61084#forumpost61084

This is probably 22-3 series-maybe earlier- although looking at those in acc folder, it appears to be missing the chrome like top center trim or joining piece. Everything here is metal though. I'm not sure fiberglass was available then.

Packard did use some Casco items but unknown if that was one of them. Where did you find the label and I'll look again. I looked at a NOS visor for unknown year-has to be something with center windshield division though-- and didn't see any obvious stampings. Box is too deteriorated to tell much but the only literature appears Packard printed but didn't find a date.

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I don't recall anything over the bulbs 51 on. There may be a baffle attached on the inside of the cluster but it does not touch the bulbs. Is there a chance someone has added something or changed the sockets--maybe trying to duplicate the black light which I think was only 48-50. If the bulbs are in or out too far, that may also be a problem.

Here is oiling schematic. Bottom connection comes directly from oil pump via main gallery, exits block and loops back into the top connection which goes to lifter gallery. There may be a restriction feeding that outlet as well as filter which is kind of what the tee indicates. Some early engines put the filter in series in that loop. Later engines with hydraulics just had the pigtail connection to ensure good oil supply to lifters if filter clogged with filter coming off the main pressure and exiting back into pan.

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Here is the antenna. Appears to be a copper or copper plated tube 1 1/4 ID x 22 1/4 long. Travel of antenna is 18". Pot metal top piece with angled points as per all antennas and the usual fender stuff. Steel bottom piece with threaded hose connection (tube must be removed before piece will come out) that bolts to the bottom fender bracket.

Both hose connections unscrew and bottom plate removes although it does have some kind of sealer since it will leak otherwise. Top plate I am unsure of right now as this one does not want to come out--don't know if sealer or if the crimp about 4 inches down from top at vacuum fitting is holding it. Don't want to break anything but will try some more another day. It will have to remove for access to the top vacuum seal.

Mast will pull thru and out the bottom once that end is off. The piston assy is a brass plug threaded into mast. Two fiber washers with a leather cup seal on each. The cups point in opposite directions and then that assy is held onto brass plug with a nut. This leather is very brittle, possibly has shrunk and may be the reason they fail--possibly the top vacuum seal fails as well as that is exposed to any junk on mast. Inside tube or cylinder surface is surprisingly good.

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Also look at the brass tee. There may be one opening smaller than the others.

Hopefully all goes well, but if not I would only suggest a bit of caution if you do go directly.

If you cannot watch what is happening so you can stop movement immediately, then try to connect at the pink and yellow wire terminals at the control switch first and use the limit switches, solenoid, & remainder of the circuitry as designed.

If one of those is not working, then not much alternative to motor but be careful. The picture shows it all. Top piece is new and is how things should look, bottom assy is result of something allowing no limit switch with twisted off spine and bent rod. Those compensator assys have incredible power and there is only a brief moment between good and not good ($$$$).

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