No, I didn't forget my camera, here's a few pix of Johan Berg's ZIS under restoration. Entirely new floorpan has been fabricated, most sheet metal work done, engine rebuilt (in Poland).

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Any decent auto parts store or plumbing supply house has these fittings, just make sure to get the right thread size on the male end, and that the female end is for an inverted flare fitting.

A fine-looking Clipper, and I particularly admire the choice of blackwall tires, so period-correct!

Clipper47, I do hope we run into each other at some Packard event, I do enjoy your well thought-out verse, your perspective on matters, plus your willingness to help others, you've been doing that for some time now. And I would enjoy looking at your car, and when you're looking at mine you could find a few inaccuracies as well. I'd even tell you what they were! But we aren't selling a high-dollar bona fide open Classic, one of perhaps a half-dozen to survive, and if we were I suspect we'd be more upfront about it.

Any chance you're going on the PAC Henry Joy Tour next month to the Finger Lakes of NYS? It's a bit of a haul from here in NJ, but 7 or 8 of us are going and I understand they have nearly 50 Packards registered for the tour. And how about emailing me a picture of your car? I've a friend with a lovely 47 Super Clipper, metallic gray over metallic blue (base coat/clear coat), with a nearly correct houndstooth upholstery but not in the original wool but in a modern polyester. And it looks great, one of my favorite cars.

I'll leave you a PM with my email.

I've no experience with the B&M fluid and have no comment on that, but if your habit is starting in "L" and then manually shifting to "H" under power, it does give some more spirited performance but as almost anyone with much experience with an Ultramatic (Twin or otherwise) will tell you, the result will be a very shortened transmission lifespan.

I've been looking at that 1934 beautiful Touring (no, it's NOT a phaeton) on eBay. A really desireable car with what appears to be impeccable paint, chrome and interior work. But what a shame it has so many incorrect features - makes you wonder how someone could spend that kind of money for an obviously high-$ restoration and ignore so many details. I'm commenting not to pick, I'd love to have the car in my garage, but I think it's important for the historical record that correct details to be noted. Here's a few of the items I noted.

Incorrect ignition coil setup (should be dual coils mounted on the head), incorrect generator brush cover and regulator, crankcase scupper mounted backwards, horn screens missing, trunk rack support stantions missing, rubber inner tube valve stems (should be nickel), dash wood graining wrong, instrument panel bezel has the wrong finish, spark plugs, wires and terminals incorrect, copper gas line, correct oil filter missing, decorative engine plating should be nickel, not chrome (ditto for some of the interior plated hardware), wrong fan, incorrect starter solenoid. I'm also not certain but believe the Adonis radiator cap was not offered for 1934.

I'm submitting this fully expecting to be taken to task, so I've got my body armor on.

EDIT: Also just noticed the suspension springs are missing their metal covers.

Upgrades is a subject which gives rise to considerable controversy, alleged advantages of the upgrades versus destroying authenticity and to some, destroying value. I'll let others go one way or the other on that topic, but note that your Packard was an extremely reliable car when new, so no upgrades are going to make a correctly restored and maintained car significantly more reliable than when new, with the possible exception of tires. And if you do decide on some upgrades, retain the original components so a later buyer could restore the originality if he was so inclined.

The 110 engine was basically the same unit throughout it's production lifetime (37 thru 48 (taxis only in 1948) and some later use in light-duty White trucks and some conversions in the 50s to Packard marine engines. Parts are generally plentiful. Many body parts interchange with the 120, as do some interior and exterior trim parts.

Re the gasoline running out when the line is broken at the fuel pump, it depends as already pointed out on the orientation of the car, and how much gas is in the tank; it may or may not run out. With the car level and less than 1/2 tank of gas, it shouldn't. I'm to short to work on the front of the car when it's elevated so I usually keep a wooden golf tee handy when I break the connection and if gas comes out, I just stick the tee into the line to stop it until I'm ready to reconnect. Don't smoke, and a non-incadescent drop light would be adviseable.

And since the pump has been leaking, there's a good chance some of the gasoline has leaked inside and diluted the crankcase oil so don't forget to change the oil when you're finished with the pump replacement.

Just to confirm what others have already said, on Bendix-style brakes without fixed anchors (like your Packard), the front or leading shoe (which originally also had a different lining material) is the primary shoe and has the shorter length lining, and where there is a difference, also has the weaker shoe return spring. The object is that when the brakes are applied, the front shoe expands first and then applies a camming action to the rear shoe, thus enhancing the force of the rear shoe to the drum. If you put the shoes on backwards, besides a loss of braking effort, the rear shoe (now the shorter lining) will wear very much faster than the front (longer lining) shoe.

Perhaps you have no power to the relay. I don't recall just where the relay is located, but someone else will come along and tell us. But just follow the wire from the steering column or from the horns and they should lead you to a small (c.a. 1 x 1-1/2) relay with a stamped steel cover with may be embossed "RBM". NAPA still sells replacement 6 volt 3-terminal horn relays, it would be Echlin part# HR-100.