Check your lubrication chart, but all the Packard steering gear boxes I'm familiar with take gear oil, not grease.

If you're not prepared to do the cross shaft per the proceedure outlined and are going to "guesstimate" it, better too loose than too tight or you'll run the risk of springing the box and doing internal damage.

I never knew that unit was called a Mag Nu Matic, you learn something all the time. Mine was rebuilt by McVey's about 8 years ago, and they did a fine job.

Incidentaly, I thought the electric component was just an electric solenoid to admit vacuum to pull the pump piston up; it's not an electric pump as I believe I read somewhere in this thread.

If you rebuild your own TreadleVac which I don't recommend unless you're very familiar with that unit, you can use any brake fluid you want, but note that two of the premier rebuilders of these units void their warranty if you use DOT 5. Or at least that was their position a year or two ago. I've used DOT 5 in earlier Packards with excellent results, but in the many cars, Packards, Mercurys, Lincolns and some GM cars, that I've serviced with TreadleVacs I've always used DOT 3 or DOT 4 and have never had a problem with any of them. That said, I do purge the old fluid and refill every 2 or 3 years.

I'm not familiar with that item, can you share a few details about it?

Standard tables of torque ranges for different thread size and grades of bolts, while useful, don't always provide the correct answer for a particular application. For example, engine main bearing bolts are generally capable of higher torque and thus clamping force that what the manufacturer recommends they be tightened to. Another other factor which comes into play is an appropriate clamping force without distortion of the fit. That said, sorry Randy I don't have an answer. Checking an old transmission installation would be a reasonable idea if you knew that it hadn't been dissassembled since it left the factory. Fifty or 60 ft-lbs sounds like a lot to me for a 7/16 NC fastener going into cast aluminum.

Your engine looks lovely except perhaps for the non-stock gasoline filter. Best of luck with it, and I hope you get many happy miles from it. I'd suggest you adjust your oil pressure a bit lower -- just as too low a pressure can cause problems, so to a lesser degree can excessive pressure. The "scouring" of the soft bearing metal is one possible consequence, kind of like what happens when you blast a stream from your garden house into the dirt.

BH's note about overtightening wheel bearings is well-advised. Most old timers did it by feel, but if you don't have that, the process that Packard recommended in later years is a good one. Tighten the nut to about 20 ft-lbs (to make sure the bearings and cones are "set"). Back off until loose. Retighten to about 4 ft-lbs. Back off to the first available cotter pin hole.

I've probably seen a half-dozen of these over the years. They are perhaps equally rare for the prewar "120" convertible coupes.

The planetary gearsets in the TL box go in both directions, for up and down of course. Visualize one of the planetary gears rotating across the outer ring gear, and squeezing the grease out of the way on it's transit. If you have a strongly channeling grease, on the return trip there would essentially be an absence of grease because it had been displaced, so you'd have more metal-to-metal contact. A non-channeling grease would have enough movement to somewhat flow back into the cavity to provide lubrication for the return trip. But please don't ask me how to tell one from the other, other than by observation.