Again, I thank you all for your most excellent information. I did locate a cross-over condenser, replaced the old one and now it runs like a top. Apparently the devise my friend used to determine the spark, although showing spark, did not show that it was insufficient. I am keeping these replies in my notes for future reference, and again I do thank you.

Thanks to all for your advice in my Running and then not query. I did finally locate the issue and that was the condenser in the distributor. Since I was seeing what I thought was good spark, I had, at first, discounted that. It is now running quite nicely, although I still cannot get it to fire off on 6 volts.
Now for my main question. I am in the first throes of reassembling the car and am trying to locate authentic screws, i.e. machine and sheet metal, that would have originally gone into the car. I have looked at Bolt Depot, Gainger, Fastenal and Fastener Super Store , but they do not seem to have exactly what I see specified in my parts book. or in the case of a couple of them, they only sell in large quantities.
Does anyone have any other sources? I can get hex head at the correct size just about anywhere, but it is the machine and sheet metal screws that seem to be the most elusive.
Thanks to all.

Thanks, Riki. I shall go back through and definitely check that. It appears to have good spark, but, appearances can be deceiving. and to Just Popping and Home Away, thank you for that information I shall definitely check on those items also and let you know.

Hello. I had my 1937 120C running fairly well and even had it able to start under 6 volts. I was running it at length because when I obtained the car, the engine was so tight, I had to kick it off using 12 volts. One day, I had it running and then it just shut down. I have not been able to get it to fire off since, except once, right after the carburetor was rebuilt, then it ran for about 15 seconds and shut down again. I have tried adjusting the timing, getting rid of the gas I was using because it might have been old, cleaning the spark plugs and checking for good spark, which it seems to have and nothing seems to work. Does anyone remember anything like this happening and if so, what was the cause to your issue and also your solution? Thanks.
Roger Howe

Thanks. I was wondering about that for my ammeter is live on both sides. I just had the ignition switch reworked, but I'll see about detecting a short there. I know I do have good current when the switch is turned off and nothing when it is turned on, so that does remain an enigma to me.
Thanks, again.

Hello. As I was attaching me new wiring harness to my '37 120C,, I was doing it one bit at at time. I had the generator and voltage regulator hooked up along with the starter solenoid. I connected the battery to see if anything might be amiss and all appeared well. after disconnecting the battery, I connected the ammeter over to the ignition switch as shown in the diagram I received from the company who made the harness. When I then connected the battery, smoke appeared from the dashboard and by the time I was able to disconnect the battery, I had completely fried the line from the ammeter to the ignition switch. I took my voltmeter and determined that there was live current from both sides of the ammeter. Do you know if that would indicate a short in the ammeter, or should I be looking somewhere else? There is definitely a short in there somewhere, but all of my information that I have on detecting shorts only works on modern cars based checking the amp draw based on fuses.
Thanks as usual for any information you might be able to give.

Thanks. What Is your e-mail address and I'll send them to you.

Hello. For my 1937 touring sedan, I have the body number from the firewall, the vehicle ID from the firewall plate and the number from the engine block. The only thing I don't have is the knowledge as to where I might go to see if these all are the original numbers, that they all went together for this particular car. I would appreciate any information as to where I might go to try to match these up. Thanks.

Thanks to both of you for the information. I'll check this out.

I am not getting spark to the plugs when I'm turning my 1937 120 engine over. I did research on the resistance specifications of ignition coils, mostly of the modern type. The resistance between the outside terminals should read between .7 and .8 ohms, but for a 12-volt system. The resistance between the output line to the distributor and the outside terminals should be between 10,000 and 11,000 ohms, again for a 12-volt system.
I am using a modern coil for 6-volts but the between terminal resistance is between .3 and .4 ohms, although I am getting readings between 10,000 and 11,000 ohms from the central terminal.
My question is, does anyone know if this reading between the outside terminals is normal for 6-volt systems since is it approximately hals of that for 12-volt systems? Im still looking at the condenser and points, but it is the coil output in which I am most interested at the moment.
Thanks.