All valve & timing specs are same also. I wonder if because the car was lower priced and normally supposed to have single exhaust and lower axle ratio, in order to keep the illusion and justify and keep the higher priced buyers happy, they conveniently didn't mention the specs would be same when optioned up--although I don't know if the exhaust would account for 15hp as that does seem the only difference. It was the 50's after all and without SEC, FTC or whatever "C", you could get away with almost anything.

The extra PS pulley works well but is larger diameter than original AC pulley was and may drive the compressor a bit fast. Probably not a problem for the Sanden or other rotary but something to be aware of. Jack Nordstrom has advertised a bracket and also a pulley he is manufacturing for the 56 Golden Hawk. Not sure about the bracket and how it fits in a Packard but the pulley looks good. He has pictures on the Hawk sitehttp://www.1956goldenhawk.com/. Click on OPTIONS, Technical Items, then AC Addition.

Installed at factory, no problem. Installed in field then there is a reinforcement in the kit which is stamped to match indentations in dash. Place in position and drill holes. Other holes have paper templates. The instructions are available on the website for anyone interested.

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And if you think its a PIA to check brake fluid in a non AC Packard, try it with that blower in the way.

I'm with you on the picts. Unfortunately back in the day before digital cameras, Xerox copiers or computers it was quite a process to provide them--plus most Packard mechanics had been around forever and if they worked on a prewar car, there really wasn't that much more to learn later because most things didn't change that much so not too much need for detailed instructions either.

Congrats on the successful removal, lack of 8 legged wildlife, and also finding out how much quality was measured by the pound back then--although maybe that doesn't hold either because trans got lighter with the aluminum case in 56 and reliability went up as well. As to carb kits, that sounds like a Kanter price. You might check Napa because that is a fairly common carb--and DaytonaParts.com also. I think they make a lot of the kits for resale by vendors--at least the ones I've bought from Fred Mauck are Daytona.

56 Caribbean with Delco starter. The hoses do hang down but not terribly-- maybe 6 or 7 inches off floor or an inch or 2 below frame. They probably could be pulled up a bit also. As mentioned, there was so much stuff around car, couldn't get a decent angle to shoot.

Wondering--are your hoses original? Reason I ask is they appear longer than the ones on my car and the drawing you did of route on one of your pix is curved. Another pict of mine taken from between battery and engine more or less straight down shows the top hose with a fairly severe 90 deg bend at slave end starting right at brass cover and then to control valve with absolutely no extra, the other hose falling in neatly below it. Your top hose looks to be longer and pushing bottom out.

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It looks awfully close--at least the operating end does. I don't have a Bendix unit off car easily available to photo, so these are best picts I can get right now of one in car. My hoses are about 1/2 inch away from anything. They are not original hoses but some I had made up locally. Hopefully someone who actually gets their car out of garage instead of surrounded by objects can take some better.

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Hope they are tame spiders, not the black widow variety that seem to like it out here. As to blower, it may be brush noise you hear. Motor is sealed and probably won't need rebuilding because getting it back together might be a bitch because of brushes. After 50 yrs could probably do with some oil and maybe some heat shrink around wires where they exit. I have had luck using penetrating oil on blower fan setscrew and shaft and then sit for a day or so. It's probably stuck pretty well and might need a gentle pry--equally on both sides at once so as not to bend. Some light oil around shaft. In the rear, drill a small 1/16 or so hole carefully over shaft at center of cap and put a few drops down to wet the felt and bearing. Have done that to several & that seems to keep them going.