I would suggest spending about $20 and get a 6 to 12volt converter. Then you can use the 12 volt adapter for both your GPS and phone.

I am looking for guidance on removing my steering wheel. I need to either clean or tighten one of the light switches on the steering wheel and cannot figure out where to start.

Thanks in advance for the guidance.

Gar

Hi- I am trying to balance my front brakes. I have new shoes on them and have about 20 miles on the shoes. I have two questions:

1- What do I need to tighten to get the rear brakes to engage better? I believe my brake equalizing linkage might have a bit of rust/corrosion on it which it giving me challenges.

2- I have adjusted my front brakes multiple times and it still keeps pulling to the left. Could I have a cracked left spring or do the 'shock' straps need some kind of adjustment?

Thanks,
Gar

Seems to me that it could be a pressure issue & float issue.

The reasoning is that the float appears to work correctly after the car is started. If the gas is drained completely out of the float chamber, the float would be calling for full fuel flow. If the float is slightly misaligned it may be temporarily stuck at the bottom. After a large inrush of fuel, causing your overflow... the float could then pop back up off of the bottom of the full(overflowing)fuel bowl and stop the fuel flow.

If the pressure is too high (perhaps at 5 or 6 lbs) you could have the issue where the engine runs too rich which could also cause the carb to drip raw fuel into the carb throat (even when the engine is turned off) and cause it to start hard when the engine is hot as well as drain all of the fuel out of the fuel bowl.

An easy way to check this dripping issue, is to start the car and after the car engine and is hot, stop the car and remove the air cleaner. Look inside the carb throat and see if you see any smoke/mist coming out of the throat. IF you do, that is your answer.

Checking your spark plugs can also give you an indication of potentially too rich of a fuel mixture. I would also check your fuel pump to verify the fuel pressure and the carbs accelerator pump to ensure it is sealing/functioning correctly.

best of luck

The relay is mounted mid-dash on the back of the cluster. It appears that any of the longer studs on the removable cluster will work .

1- On my 533 I have a toggle that controls the two dash lights. The map light is really the dash light with a metal slide that can be opened to read the map.



2- As far as the relay(breaker). There is a metal coil/relay (approx 1" x 1") that is attached to a metal arm (approx .75" x 3"). The coil is mounted to the arm, which is mounted to the back of the metal dash housing.

If the relay dies, you loose all of your lights; therefore, I would suggest adding at least a couple of fuses. One in-front of the relay and one or two behind it for your head lights,fogs,running, dash, etc.

Your generator outputs voltage and current continuously. Bear in mind that the generator will output approx 20-30 AMPs and therefore the wire from the generator to the battery and the Ammeter needs to be a minimum of a #10AWG. A #10 AWG is rated for 30 AMPs continuous load.

If you use a smaller wire (mine was rewired by a prior owner with #12AWG - good for 20AMPs), it will be overloaded and as in my case melted from the inside out. Period correct cloth wiring and armored wiring can be purchased from several vendors (YnZ and Restoration supply come to mind).

Thank you sir.

Yes, the 'wheel cover' that has the ships wheel in it.

Any suggestions?

Here are 3 pics for the car.

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Just picked up a 57 4 door Clipper with 57K miles.

Car turns-over, runs and stops. The Supercharger runs smoothly with very little noise.

Waiting for 40 degree temps and then I can start to dig into this beast.


So far the only thing I need to do immediately is order a carb rebuild kit from Daytona so I can rebuild the carburetor while the snow is still flying.