I see reference in the forum to your wiring color code list, but I didn't see where the actual list is. Can you help point me there.

Great suggestions. You know the one about putting gas in the car seems obvious but I didn't think of it. My fuel gauge sensor doesn't work, but I had a full tank of gas and have probably only driven about 30 miles on it. So I ruled that out, but if there was a leak like Bernie had, I could be losing gas somewhere. So I will check that and the filter on the electric pump. Then I will see if the fuel pump is pushing gas at least through to the filter

I am looking for a little help. I have a 1946 Packard Deluxe Clipper. The car was stored for about 8 years and the gas tank became full of rust. I had the car with a good mechanic for about a year and he essentially re-built the whole fuel system. Removed the gas tank and had it re-coated. Re-build the carburator, and installed a new airtex E8011 electric fuel pump.

I am been driving the car on short trips for the past few weeks since getting it back and then yesterday it stopped on me. It appeared to not be getting fuel. I was able to get it home by designing a makeshift gravity fed fuel tank to the carburtor using a water bottle. So I know the carburator seems to be working okay.

The clear in-line filter I had after the electric fuel pump was already filled with rust sediment. I can only assume that was from remaining bad gas in the fuel line. I replaced that with a new filter and when I run the electric pump it doesn't seem to be pushing any gas. So now I am guessing that some of the rust also has damaged the electric fuel pump.

My plan is to back to the gas tank and remove the fuel line and work my way through the system to see if I can see what the electric fuel pump is not pushing or the mechnical fuel pump is not pulling gas.

Any other ideas?

Thanks a bunch. I might not get to it right away, but I'll let you know how it goes.

I have been away from this forum for awhile. I had my 46 Packard in with a mechanic who completely rebuilt the fuel system and the cooling system for me.

I am now tinkering with a few issues. The plunger switch that turns the backup light on will go on but then the plunger doesn't drop to turn the light off when I go out of reverse. I have manually pushed it back and forth a few times, I think it might be rusted. Before trying to replace the switch I thought I would check to see if anyone has repaired one of these.

Question on Vent. Several years ago I removed the vent that runs from the front of the car into a vent opening in the firewall. It appears to be about a 3" tube, but I am not sure what it looks like. Does anyone know if these are available or can give me a picture of what it should look like. Picture of firewall vent and opening in front of car below.

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I had a thought. I had to fix the rear defroster on my Tahoe because the tab broke off the window. I found an electrically conductive epoxy that fixed it. I am wondering if this might be an easy option to keep these pesky tail light wires in place.

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I have a loose wire in my tailight. I can shove it back into the connector and it works fine, but I know that is not a permanent fix. I would like to fix it correctly, it does not appear that it is a crimp type connection. I expect that it should be soldered into place somehow. Any suggetions? Picture Below.

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Okay, this is very helpful. Definitely vaccum based washer pump and made by Trico. I did some internet research and found that Tucson Packard may have one. I am checking on the price. See picture below.

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My 46 Packard has spray nozzles on the windshield and then the tubes are hanging free under the dash. I expect they went out through the firewall through the whole shown in picture below. Does anyone know what type of washer reservoir/pump was used on my car?

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