Maybe consider running some 2 stroke engine oil poured into the gas tank. Many swear by it for the flat head m/c engines. I've never tried it. Probably should tho.

Sorry Kev, can't help with that, never had one apart or even taken a close look.

Dave it does look like SL-134. Thanks for posting that. I'll see if the local Napa has them in stock.

How to the pedals attach to the pivot shaft? I was think the pedal has migrated along the shaft and just need to be moved back to it correct location and retightened. But perhaps it's not that simple.

PS > ECH SL134 $8.99 at Napa.

Now Online!

1925 Packard Eight 235 - 243 Fact Book

Thanks to Jim Wayman for the donation of this content.

1957-59 Echlin Service Bulletins

Thanks to Dave Kenney for the donation of this content.

Dave, somewhat fortunately my old Custom 8 has one of those relatively uncommon 356 heads that Packard cast in 1951 with 14mm plugs. I don't think these were made in large numbers. My chuck is brazed to an old sparkplug shell. I wonder if a solder joint would be strong enough - though on household copper plumbing (where the solder film in quite thin!) it easily takes the 100+ psi water pressure.

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Dave, Do you have the air chuck made up from a 10MM plug? I was thinking of making one also. Did you weld the chuck onto the plug or would solder work better?

Kev, I enjoy reading your progress. The brake switch is a standard off-the-shelf item at NAPA and probably the other parts stores as well. If the switch has male bayonet electricals and 1/8 pipe thread, it's a NAPA/Echlin SL-134. See attached listing.

Unsure of 51-54, but the 22nd/23rd series were known for wear on the shaft from lack of lubrication and the pedal arms would hit the toe board. Usual cure is to mount a new shaft whichis available as a slight oversize from one of the Packard regions. They also used rubber bellows to seal out dirt/noise when the pedals were relaxed, again I don't know if that practice continued into the 50s but the parts book has the answer.

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Well I got the rest of the fuel hard line ran to rear of the car. That was a bit of an adventure. There is a shared bolt on a bracket that extends from the frame where the drivers side parking brake cable is held and also is where one of the fuel line clamps is secured. Due to the tension on the parking brake cable even when the brake is released, it prohibits re-clamping that cable. So you have to basically take all the tension off the parking brake cable using the equalizer adjuster. So which means I will have to readjust the parking brakes when all done.

Next problem is the the electric fuel pump I was going to use for priming, is not going to work. It has hose barb end on the outlet side that is only like 1/4". Way to small. Plus to even get it to hook up I would have to cobble together a series of adapters. Which I don't want to do.I didn't notice this small barb end until I got the pump out of the packaging and removed the protective shipping caps. The inlet side have a screw in barb, but the outlet barb is not removable. So I think I will look at getting the same pump that Randy recommended. The final hook up to the tank is on hold until I get a different pump.

I think I am also going to add one or two more line clips to the fuel line. Because I had to use a multi-piece hard line with couplers. I don't want the line moving around and possible causing leaks at the couplers. So there really need to be an additional clip at the rear portion of the hard line run along the frame rail before it goes back up and over the frame.

Next two problems. While I was under the car I noticed two small fluid puddles that have shown up since it has gotten warmer. The first one was under the transmission, and the second one under the master cylinder.

The transmission one is seeping from when the filler tube screws into the pan. So I just tighten the fitting a little bit more, and I will recheck tomorrow.

The Master Cylinder leak was coming off the distribution block. So first I wiped it dry, and then pumped the brakes over and over and recheck to see where the leak was coming from. It actually coming out the top of the brake switch. Basically seeping up between the seam in the metal casing and the black plastic insulator where the terminals are. So looks like I will need to find a new switch, and then re-bleed the brakes.

Also I noticed that the brake pedal lever itself is rubbing on the right side edge of the hole in the toe board. Is there an adjustment on the pivot shaft to re-center it? Or is the lever simply bent and I just need to unbend it? I also never noticed that lube fitting that feeds the pivot shaft. So I will also replace the lube fitting with a new one, and grease it.

Thanks guys for all the support and ideas. It's beginning to look more and more like a sticky valve, due no doubt to very infrequent use and then only very short trips at low speeds, perhaps coupled with some old gasoline. As of today after a good long drive, the owner reports that the length of the episodes where it runs well are increasing.

Thank you everyone!