I'll be there mid-Wednesday through late Saturday; (delivering some goodies from For Sale forum).

Pat Mescher

For what its worth, the PAC website has a write up on the subject of series fuel pumps versus electric. If you have not read it, it is worth the effort.

Here is the link:http://www.packardclub.org/html/electric-fuel-pumps.htm

I used what the article calls the Seagrave method (after Seagrave Fire Apparatus, safety guidelines). This is the parallel pump method.

The electric pump I purchased includes a check valve that prevents any circular flow through it, so the mechanical pump, rebuilt a few years ago, doesn't even notice.

Pat

I think this topic could be moved to the Pre War forum.

Glad it work. Amen to the cap being tight...nothing like pumping oil out of the leak while you are darting to shut down the engine.

On a related note: as you replace the filter in the future, you may want to research a few different types whose only difference is the cap seal. I've noticed you can buy filter elements of exact same dimensions with different diameter seals.

Happy Trails,
Pat

Understood now....I'll try to do some research...may take a few days.


Pat

I have the guts to a Borg clock from that era. If you are interested, send me a message.

In the meantime, I'll try to dig it out.

Pat

The 40-46 six did not use a T block (see photo below). You'll see a pretty simple installation. However, there is a hidden benefit of using the T block if you don't know how your replacement.

The T block was primarily used for engines with Hydraulic Tappets (like the super 8) in conjunction with a special filter canister that had the letters HT or HYT stamped on the rim of the lid, standing for Hydraulic Tappets, which needed reliable pressure in order to maintain correct function; you never wanted to starve them. Also, those cars with an electric oil pressure sense gauge used the T block to mount the signal sender.

Now back to your 40: Your car did not have an electric gauge. The original Packard 40 junior filter canister has a blowoff pressure of 10 psi, which means that as the filter element becomes clogged, it creates backpressure. When this pressure becomes greater than 10 psi, a check valve opens, allowing oil to bypass the element and get on its way back into the engine. This way, the bearings, etc will not be starved due to a dirty filter.

Not all filter canister makers used the bypass function, or had the same blowoff pressure. If yours has no bypass and the filter became clogged (which would be really clogged) the filter would block the flow. So, without this, your choice is to be vigilant with your filter changes, or put in the T block with an orifice of sufficiently small size such that it forces some oil will through the filter.

Before I had a Packard filter, I had one with no bypass, but chose not to use a T block because I wanted all the oil to go through the filter. I also changed it every year....long before hit the recommended 2000 mile interval.

I hope this helps,
Pat

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Sorry, I have no experience with that. Although, I'd have to guess that the parts will show you how they want to be assembled.

Got photos?

Pat

Crow,
I own a 39 six sedan and yes, all images/history/etc indicate the horn, coil bracket, plug wire bracket, air cleaner bracket and even aftermarket oil filter bracket are mounted with the nut over the bracket. Further, I don't think the studs are long enough for the two nuts necessary to lock the bracket atop the lower nut that would hold the head.

Finally, and for what its worth, I've had the brackets under the head nuts for 15 years with no external or internal leaks.

Hope this helps. You may wish to peruse the Service Letters on this site to see some authentic photos and drawings that confirm this.

Best Regards,
Pat (39sixsedanman)

I've been searching for the earlier pages of the Echlin catalog that cover 39, but could not find them here. Could you post those?
Thanks so much,
Pat