This 55, 400 is for sale in Columbus OH.
Is this White Jade and Topaz?

If it is, I've been looking for an good image this color combo for a while. This is the direction I am moving toward on my 400.

The only White Jade and Topaz cars that I have seen so far have been parts cars.

I love the white body.

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Sand blasting the interior is no longer an option. I put the body back on the car 2 years ago its not leaving my shop to be sand blasted now.

I spent a couple hours yesterday and today cleaning the remaining insulation from the rear seat area and the truck. I had been using one of those pneumatic needle scaler but found out that low pressure hammer chisel works much better at removing that crap. I do still need to use a wire wheel over most of it.

My plan now is to re-seal the seams, roll and/or brush on a couple coats some rust-oleum paint then cover the floor and ceiling with some sort of adhesive insulation made for purpose.

There are still some small bits and pieces of the original insulation in places but I am not going to worry about making it perfect. The rust-oleum will seal what little is
remaining just fine.

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I guess I was thinking something like this LizardSkin from Summit.
I'm just don't want to clean the back seat area becasue I'm getting lazy. I'm wonder if this stuff can be put over top the original coating. I agree that insulation like stuff is probably cheaper and better.

I'm jumping around all over the place and not really getting anything completed.

Currently trying to clean up the cabin and removing the old sound proofing/insulation that is sprayed on everywhere.


I'm looking for shortcuts by not removing 100% of it. The front sent area is cleaned but the back seat areas is still coated. I also have not removed the stuff from the seams around the firewall.

Given the choice would you use the modern paint-on stuff like bed liner or that adhesive insulated padding that are so popular in street rods today?

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Will my original Delco starter work properly if connected with negative ground?

Thanks guys. I'll double checking all the connections and planning to move the ground. I wondered about the starter housing paint myself but I found this picture below that I took right before I put it on so, I'm good there.

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I colorized this image for simplification. I have duplicated this drawing exactly as its seen here with the extra wire from the Pertronix. I turn the key nothing happens, I replaced the ignition with a starter trigger and nothing happens. I hook the trigger to the starter and the starter does responds slowly. I am set up with positive ground and the battery is strong.
I'm not trying to actually run the engine right now, I just want it to get it to turn over for me.
Any suggestions?

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Thanks Howard
Nothing is wired right now. Nothing at all.

Got another question. A couple years ago I got good deal on this item in the image. I thought it would be nice not to have to worry about points (don't ask me why). So, I wired it into the distributor last year still thinking it would be a good idea.
The second image is a wiring diagram for this device.
Do you think this will work if I wire it like the third image below.
It would probably be easier just to put the points back in.

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I think I got the oil issue taken care of. There were multiple issues but when I rotated the engine the flow changed.

I found this wiring image in the Service Manual. I'm sure you are familiar with it. Can I start the engine with only this setup?

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Thank you everyone and a special thank you to Ross. Should have thought of that myself.

I pulled the rocker and ran the pump. I wa snto prepared for the amount of oil that flowed out. I set the rockers back in place without the bolts and ran the pump again. That little glob in the image below shot out of the far right bolt hole.

Put the bolts in place with just a couple turns and everything is still good but when I tighten the bolts down (not torqued) the flow cuts of again.
I guess I need to dissemble that rocker and clean it out again this weekend.

Stewart

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