The '39 Six had been developing a sag between gears and upon sudden acceleration, but starting and running good, so I was going re-kit the carb. The tag # is 466S, which according to the book, is for a 1940 Oldsmobile (o my goodness) Book says the correct carb would be tag # 477S. My burning question: What is the difference? I know Carter made WA-1's for a bunch of stuff. Is it worth messing with only to have it "never quite right" or would the differences add up to nothing in the end?

Thanks

Here's a better photo of a rat's nest, works good though.

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This is the filter set up on my '39 Six. The tubes are copper and attach at the base of filler neck and block. I wish this picture showed that better but it's the only one I have of the engine at this point. Hope it helps.

Having a hard time uploading, you can see the picture here:
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=1669&forum=10

6500 would be a good price for a fairly nice, running driver car. However, a car is worth what it's worth to you, keep looking! They're out there.

Thanks for the help guys, I will contact them. Turn around is not a big factor, I just don't want the pump woes to continue. I never liked the look of the one on there now to begin with. Now, although it seems to work fine, it's noisy, and will leak about a cup of coolant at random, for no apparent reason, sometimes just for sitting around and doing nothing. Weird. I would do it myself but have no press, and the kit is like 70 bucks.

Looking for contact info on a good rebuilder for my original water pump for the '39 1700. The aftermarket repop unit I am using now is not working out. Thanks

Radiator will not clear the pump, it must be removed prior to snaking out the radiator. Water dist. tube pulls straight out of the block with pump off and radiator removed. Mine has 2 small tabs at the pump end to maintain it's position in the block. You can re-use it as long as it's not rotted out (old time coolant mixtures were evil) just make sure the holes are all open and you're good to go. A recore job is gonna be in the 750 or 800 range, due to the labor intensive nature of the project (don't cheap out here). I guess you'll have to figure your best option of cost versus labor/time if retrofitting is a direction worth considering.

10-4 on the gloves! FlackMaster can always be counted on for solid help, and the procedure above outlines the most effective way of the 1935 radiator removal. Removal is not so critical as you are removing the old before a recore, but is good practice knowing you won't want to beat up your new one. Angle of attack is key, and correctly performed you can get it in and out without so much as touching the fins. Unless you own a radiator shop you can figure on a couple weeks turn-around on a recore. You won't believe the difference it makes in your cooling though, and worth every penny it costs. Did you get the water pump to stop leaking?

The 1938/1939 Shop Manual calls for S.A.E. 140 or 160 mineral oil (summer) and S.A.E. 90 (winter) in the standard transmission. For the rear diff, use S.A.E. 90 regardless. With our modern lubricants, I would think you could use a quality 90 weight all around. What ever you do, never use kerosene to flush the differential.

Hey, you guys are making my lowly original 1282 look bad! Seriously though, great looking cars gentlemen, I think a "random sighting" area is a great idea. I see these around once in a while.