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Re: Various CL Pickings
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Home away from home
 
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A few more from the NW.
1955 400. Project car, comes with extra parts (doors, hood, trim, etc). Engine has been pulled and rebuilt, also has oil pump conversion. Painted correct color. Interior is rough, as is exterior paint. Price is on target though: $2,500. 1951 200. This one has popped up for sale several times over the past few years. Still not many pictures shown, just like all the past ads. And the pictures that are there are garbage. No idea what the interior or engine bay looks like. It's not far from me so if anyone wants me to take a look at it let me know. $10,000. 1948 Club Sedan. Not sure if this one has been posted here already. Attractive body style but needs work. Engine has been rebuilt, painted in blue. Interior redone in some sort of non-original fabric. Not a bad car to start with, maybe talk the price down? Also not far from me, so if someone wants me to take a look I will. $7,500
Posted on: 4/3 18:53
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Re: Rear axle help (54-55)
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Quote:
I beat on the '52 for over an hour until my arm was sore. Heat was the only thing that ended up working for me. But I didn't have that problem on my dad's '38, and my '54 came off without too much of a fight. Corrosion maybe?
Posted on: 4/2 10:00
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Re: Rear axle help (54-55)
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Here's the link to where I started my rear brakes/axles. The drum puller I used is linked to Amazon there. I highly recommend you spend the money and buy one of these large pullers. Nothing from Autozone or other rental places will work. And you'll need a big puller every time you need to mess with the rear brakes.
You will almost certainly need to use heat to get the drums off. A lot of heat. On my brother-in-law's '52 I had to apply heat many times over several days until it finally popped. I had the puller as tight as it would go and heated the hub until there was smoke coming out of the drum. Several heat and cooling cycles did the trick. This video shows what will be required, except ignore the puller they are using. Get a real man's puller. For the axle seals I'd recommend renting a slide hammer. Makes taking the inner seal out a breeze, as well as pulling the axle itself. A couple taps and you're done. Like David said earlier, be sure to lubricate any new seals with gear oil. I had a heck of time chasing down a squealing noise after I did all my axle work, only to find that I had installed the outer seal on the driver's side without lubricating the leather. The leather was rubbing against the axle as it rotated and made a ton of noise.
Posted on: 4/1 21:18
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Re: Floor pan repairs
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That looks great! Seam sealer is awesome.... It covers a multitude of sins. That plus the POR-15 will do a great job protecting your floor. This car will probably never see the elements like it used to, so you for should last forever.
Posted on: 3/30 20:55
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Quote:
Thanks Howard. I didn't see a way to disassemble the solenoid further without unsoldering wires and such. I decided against it. Rotating the studs would be rather simple, I may do that. The solenoid does have a number stamped on it, which I'll need to look at and record when I get home. It's likely that it was used on other makes and models. Regardless, I think most of my issues were due to the brushes being completely worn out. I don't think they were making much contact with the commutator. That and the wiring to and from the starter was ugly. But I will probably rotate those studs for good measure before I put the starter back in. No harm in that.
Posted on: 3/28 12:57
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Kev and Don, I think you are right. I didn't have much time but did take a quick glance at the retainers on both doors (did not take the trim off yet). The driver's side has the tab broken off, and both appear to be sticking too far out. I'll pull the trim and see what they look like inside. They were removed in the past when the previous owner had the car painted.
I did get some time last night to finish getting the starter back together. The old brushes were completely shot:  Unfortunately the bushing I got from Max Merritt was not correct at all. The existing bushings in my starter have grooves and have a larger diameter than what I received. I'll contact them and get it changed out.   The contacts inside of the solenoid looked okay as far as I could tell. Some pitting for sure, but I don't know that it's bad enough to worry about.   Got everything cleaned up nicely, repainted the housing and reassembled. I may still replace the bushing. Not in a huge rush to reinstall the starter because I can't drive until I get the seats back.  
Posted on: 3/28 12:00
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Acolds - it looks like you posted while I was typing. Thanks for the picture, that's exactly what I needed. Yours is sitting nice and tight inside the door edge. I can't get either side to do that. The door handle hardware is in the way. Is your rubber trimmed to allow the hardware to stick through?
Kev - I didn't realize that clip was supposed to be pushed in all the way. I'll see if I can do that. The driver's side does not have the clip seen on the passenger side, but there are still two prongs sticking out that prevents full seating. -Kevin
Posted on: 3/26 10:29
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Thanks Don and Kev. I'll give it some time and see how they compress.
Does anyone have good pictures of how this upper piece is supposed to sit? I know there is a metal piece that should be there, and I'll have to fabricate it. But I'm not understanding how the rubber is supposed to sit with the door handle mechanism in the way.   
Posted on: 3/26 10:07
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Quote:
It's different than the one on my '54. The '54 has a large loop for the nylon line. No loop that I saw on the '53. I'll check it again tomorrow and see if I can get more info. On a different note, I had another package come in from Max Merritt. This time with some weatherstripping for the doors. There was almost nothing left of the original stuff, and what was there I removed when I painted the door jambs. Never done weatherstrip before but I think it went okay.   As expected, the doors were very hard to close. And both doors are sticking out now, whereas before the door gaps were pretty close to perfect. I assume this will correct itself over the next couple of days?  
Posted on: 3/25 23:52
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Quote:
The top is bent, and the rest is a bit bent too. I think I can unbend them. On second look I don't think this is a power antenna after all. I may still end up using it for my car....not sure yet. I won't be using the radio but I don't like how my mast is missing.
Posted on: 3/25 19:10
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