I recently had the Starter and the Generator rebuilt by a shop in central Illinois. They did a good job but went a little over board with the black paint. They sold me the 12 volt regulator in the image for warranty purposes. I guess they wanted to make sure I got one made in the USA. It was only $65 so I am not complaining. I added a pic of the box top and part number if anyone is interested. I have seen other post on here where people are talking about these becoming hard to find.

All these parts on the on the shelf for now as I am still working on the underside of the body. Little holes keep turning up to be patched. I think I have mentioned before that I had to remove both of the rear most body mounts from under the trunk. The rust was just to bad on them that I had no choice. I spent part of the winter rebuilding and reinforcing them. Well I got one of them back in place tonight. It feels good but I am sure tired of crawling underneath this thing.

If I had to do it all over again I would buy a rotisserie. The $1500 for one seemed like a lot of money back when I started but now its seems like a drop in the bucket.

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Working under the body this long 4 day weekend. Trying to finish cleaning it up in order to undercoat the whole thing soon.
Most of the rust holes are cut out and patched. Sure am getting tired of being under that thing.

I did pick up pair of NOS brake switches off Ebay recently. Got the pair for $25.

Also found a pair of spark plug wire guides from a 56. I saw them on KevinAZ's 400 last month and liked the way they looked. Mike Borth in Wisconsin just happened to have one pair left on his site. They arrived today.

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I ordered some exhaust clamps to start getting everything connected. I didn't want the usual u-bolt type because, knowing me, I would have to have to pull everything back apart because I forgot something and then the u-bolts would have mangled everything beyond repair. So ,I ordered the strap type clamps seen below.

While I was under the chassis putting on the first clamp I noticed a loose bolt for the transmission conversion plate. Looked some more and all the bolts are loose. Now I get to pull the trans back off to fix all those bolts. Guess I use some locktite this time. I've never seen bolts work their way out due the temperature change before. That's all it could have been as the engine has not been started yet.

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Its not craigslist but if you can locate it, you can probably have it for free.

http://justacarguy.blogspot.com/2017/02/the-flood-of-blacksmith-fork-and-logan.html

Found these two in the Cincinnati Craigslist but I believe they are actually located north of Allentown, Pennsylvania


1955 Packard Caribbean convertible - $48000
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/5965785038.html

1954 Packard Convertible - $28500
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/5965783783.html

The wife and I were flew to Phoenix AZ for a farm conference last week. Sunday we drove down to Tuscan and visited this guy below and his wife. Some of you will surely recognize KevinAZ from this site and Craig's Packard Panther website.

Wonderful hospitality and a ride in his 400.

For many of you Packard's are a regular sight but in my part of the country they are few and far between. In fact, I had never even seen a 400 with my own eyes before (other then my own). Kevin is also the first and only PackardInfo member that I have met in person.

Seeing and riding in Kevin's 400 was everything I hoped it would be.

Note to self, never again tease the wife about the T/L as she climbs out of the back seat. I forgot she knew what that was.

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As Riki suggested I contacted Packard Southwest and I ordered a used heat riser.

I also tried going to a local exhaust shop about that blank I had. There were 3 shops listed in the county. One had changed to tires only now, one and gone out of business and the last was not open on Saturdays.

So I received the riser from Packard SW and once I cleaned it up it was in much better shape then my original riser, except for one thing. The damper was locked up tight. I soaked it for 7 days and it still would not move. Soooooo, I cut it out. I am so sick of being stuck on this part and now I am moving on. You can't tell that its been cut out. The weight and spring are still there. I just placed a weld on the inside to hold both sides in place. You can see from the images below its all bolted in now.

I ordered a couple fuel pumps. One in line pump to go mid-frame under the driver seat. Found a replacement for the engine pump on Rock Auto. It was cheaper then a rebuild kit for the original pump.

Also, I was working on the insulation in the shop this week when I discovered a couple huge cracks in the wind shield that I have stored up on a shelf. Now I have that to look forward to some day.

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56 Clipper in Indy. Has a pushbutton and running engine, $4000.
https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/5952384886.html

1SG: I may check that out next week, thanks.

64Avanti: I over think everything, unfortunately. I have read other post that say removing the riser/spacer entirely will place the pipes to close to some of the power steering hoses and cylinder but I don't know what "to close" rally is.
As mentioned in my older post, my riser is not going back in weather its working or not. I'm just trying to find a viable solution and of course over thinking it.

I was hoping this would be the final chapter in my heat riser project. Now I am not so sure.

The Ford spacer/blank from eBay arrived yesterday. The bolt holes were oh-so-close. I could get 1 thread in (on the second bolt) before it would bind down at an angle. I put a 1/2 drill bit through both holes and now it works fine. I just wish my problems ended there.

As you can see below the original riser is 7/8 thick. The Ford spacer is nearly double that at 1.5". I could probably live with that as well as I doubt the extra would hurt anything but there is more.

The inside diameter of the spacer is smaller then the pipes. I should have seen that from the eBay pic I posted last week but I was concentrating on the bolt holes. Of course this could cause a build up of carbon where the spacer and manifold meet. Also the cross over pipe has about an 1/2 inch extension beyond the flange that is inserted into the original riser (seen in post #494). It won't fit in the spacer so I would have to cut the extension off and I'm just not sure that I want to do that to a $500 exhaust system. Before someone asks, I do not have a lathe or mill to fix this myself.

I'm only $30 in the hole at the moment. I am sure there is a spacer out there that is perfect but there are no measurements for what I am finding online and brand new ones cost from $60 to $90. I'm starting to think that $125 for a new riser isn't so bad anymore.

What do you guys think?

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