Thanks to all, will try to get under the car after work in the next couple days, and see about the cross member. West thanks, if you get under thanks so much, much work on my behalf, thanks for making my life easier.
Did you ever order any of the trim clips from Restoration?
HH the two lines for oil, you are right may not work. I will have no way to tell if more oil is getting to the galley or not. I suppose as stated will enlarge all canister and fitting passages for maximum flow. While I have things apart if any of you have any more suggestions let me know. Other people with earlier 356's may have the same problem and I guess we might learn something from this. I have looked at four canisters from this period, what might be stock, and couple after market for sure, they seem to flow from inside filter out. Regardless of how marked on outside of canister. In and out on side or bottom. Am I still missing something?

About six inches toward the rear of your photo, look just above the base of the brake shaft. Thanks so much!!!!
Follow the master cyinder shaft to the brake shaft, just to the passenger side of the shaft you will see the nub, and hopefully one end of a spring going?

Yes must be the brake retracting spring. When I hold the spring towards the rear, I don't see any matching hole or surface, it would be marked or worn where it attached after twenty plus years of use. Will look again. Unfortunately as I am getting older now, I look at something and wonder how did that work? Then a couple days later, say to myself why didn't I see that before? I will try to take a picture with my cell phone camera if the flash will go inside of this area. Any ideas on the oil canister bypass and needle valve? A useless idea?

Just putting back together the clutch, brake pedal assembly, just about all together, except cannot remember where one end of the spring attaches to. This is at the base of the brake pedal shaft. One side of the shaft has the pivot shaft for the master cylinder, and the other side has a nub a spring goes on. Cannot remember if the other side of the spring attaches somewhere toward the rear to the chassis, or up on the driver side firewall. There does seem to be a small hole in the firewall access plate.
Been sick the past couple weeks and just wiped me out.
I was the guy a few weeks ago with the noisy lifters. Got another oil canister that seems to be a bit more correct as the inlet is at the bottom of the canister instead of the side, will machine out all fittings and internal oil holes for a bit more flow. HH explained the later motors that have the extra flow to the oil pan. Which mine does not. So let me run this by all of you. If I run from the oil pump outlet (pressure) to the oil canister for some filtering, and using a tee, a direct line to the lifter galley with some sort of needle valve to restrict the direct flow enough to force some oil to flow through the oil canister. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for all of your time.

Using the full flow oil canister by pass, have run twice, so far maybe the lifers are about 50% quieter, will rum more over the next two days. Just received today a Packard Oil Canister made by Motor Improvements Inc. Has the inlet at the bottom, and outlet at top side of canister. But, still oil comes in from a small hole in the center pipe, flows inside out of the filter, then to the outlet at top side canister. So no matter how a canister is labeled it seems to flow from inside to outside of filter element. Don't see how this will give me any more flow than the one I originally have on the car. I can drill another hole in the center pipe to give more flow that way, good idea? This canister also came with what looks like a ceramic filter,any ideas on that? Even though it states for Packard, still wrong canister?
Thanks so much. Todd

Wish they did the long wheelbase 1940.

After I posted the message, kind of thought that. What I am going to do to make it easy and fast, with no restrictions. Is I happen to have two threaded adapters to 5/16 hose barbs. This will give me quick and straight through, no restrictions, from oil output to galley input. Hope for the best.

I have the tubing and benders so will give that a try. What is the advantage of dropping extra oil to the crank case?
Thanks.

Anyone happen to have the correct oil canister for sale?
Thanks

Just thinking aloud. Could run a tube from the outlet to the inlet at side of block, with a small valve. Allowing some of the oil to run directly back into the block bypassing the filter. If it is possible to over deliver oil, the valve could take care of.