Is it getting fuel pressure? Maybe you need to add an electric fuel pump, just turn it on before starting to assure fuel to the carb and then you should be able to leave it off. Or, does the accelerator pump in the carb work? Needs to have a decent seal to give a squirt of gas.

Not a lot happening this week, very busy at work and family stuff occupying my mind and time. I did get a few hours in the main shop cleaning up parts removed from the engine bay and getting some paint on them. On the shelf for reinstallation later they go.

I want to finish cleaning up the engine so I can put some paint on it, then reassemble things so I can get it running once the temperature comes up around here. Hard to work on it when there's frost on the block, my little propane heater can warm up the air in my plastic bubble but not the metal parts which are so completely cold-soaked. And I can't really work on cleaning up rust and grime since I can't prime or paint in there, I'd just be setting up things to rust again.

What I'll have to concentrate on is things like the brakes, I have to replace all the lines and master cylinder, and I already have new wheel cylinders ready to install. Then when the time comes I could at least tow the car over to the heated shop at work on a weekend to pressure wash things and otherwise clean and prime. I got my new front suspension rubber seals today so I can put the front end back together when I am done working around the engine, it's pretty easy to get to things without any suspension in the way.

Marking time until the temperature gets up to something a little less arctic. No offense to my Canadian friends, but you can keep your dang air masses.

I got my kit from Mike's Carburetor Parts, about $63. Prices are all fairly close from what I saw, pretty sure he gets his kit from somebody else though. It had one wrong gasket which he quickly replaced when I pointed it out.

I saw that too, Mal, thanks. So I guess I need to get my pan off now to see just what matches. Work was nuts and ran long today so I didn't get a chance to start that process this evening.

My engine is a 327, but I agree, I believe the pans are the same. I'll pm you tomorrow, David.

Remember I mentioned that my wife's uncles used this car to chase foxes through the fields when they were lads? Here is a picture of the oil pan which shows the results. It doesn't leak! I'm going to need to get a better pan though, anyone know of a good source?

Attach file:

---

  (49.56 KB)

It was a balmy +5F today so time to work in the hangar, ran out of propane and had to go exchange a cylinder at lunchtime but otherwise not bad in my bubble. I removed the valve covers and the valve area isn't too gunked up at all, that's promising. Hooked up a battery and spun the engine over with the starter, all the valves are free and the lifters seem to all rotate so that's promising too.

Then I chipped away at the hardened dirt/oil concrete on the driver's side of the engine, removed the oil filter, distributor, starter to get to the block. All that stuff needs to be cleaned up and checked. Got the trans lines loose at the cooler and removed that too, and the fan. I will remove the pulleys to get to the timing cover and water pump etc too. Anything that I can throw a new gasket at I will.

Attach file:

---

  (60.04 KB)


  (59.55 KB)

That looks familiar

Mike, regarding that area that you can't get behind check out BigKev's blog for ideas. He used a little unit that welds studs to the low spot so you can use them to pull the dent out. Then grind off the studs. Above my bodywork skill level for sure but an idea to keep in mind.

I don't see anywhere where the '51 says "Ultramatic" on the side?

Yours is a '52, that's why it doesn't have the letters on the hood. Only had those in '51.