Since I don't know the history of the freeze plugs, I'm going to replace them all and be done with it. You mentioned using hardening permatex on the plugs, wouldn't that prevent the plugs from moving in the event of a freeze?

I installed that oil pump. I did not use the high output pump. Maybe that is the difference.

I just finished repairing all the oil leaks on the engine and while I was under the car I noticed a freeze plug that had just started leaking. It's the one under the motor mount so I was planning on pulling the engine to get at it. Packard V-8 said it can be replaced without pulling the engine, just remove the motor mount, so I will give it a try. If frustration gets the best of me then I will pull the engine. My thinking is that if one is leaking the rest will be leaking soon so replace them all at once while the antifreeze is drained. Any comments on that theory? Are there any "tricks of the trade" to pull a freeze plug and installing a new one? I was gonna drill a hole in the center and pry it out then clean the surface area of the block then tap a new plug in. Are there any sealants I should use? Thanks in advance for advice and comments. Brian

I will try that first and if frustration gets the best of me then I will pull the engine. I will start a new forum for the freeze plug job. Thanks again.

Well, I ended up trimming the tab off the side gaskets only at the rear, not the front. The rear main cap had notches to hold in place the end gasket so it made installing the pan much easier. I left the notches on the front because it helped line up the gasket. The pan is on and the RTV is curing. While I was under the car I noticed the freeze plug under the engine mount was leaking so NOW I am in the process of pulling the engine to replace that bad freeze plug. Thanks everyone who helped me with this forum. It was greatly appreciated. Brian

It was part of a gasket set from Kanters.

The main cap gaskets were to long to begin with, so I trimmed them to fit without the side gasket installed. Then I did a pre-fit of the side gaskets and that is when I noticed the tabs and how they fit in the same area as the end gaskets. Without the end gaskets installed, the side gaskets fit perfectly. The tabs have a different offset from the edge to accommodate the difference between the front and rear gasket channels.

Apon closer inspection, the side gaskets are cork, just not the natural cork color like the end pieces thats why I assumed they weren't cork. I should know better than to assume (ass-u-me) anything. I read the SM pg 20 about installing the pan but it doesn't mention anything about the tabs on the side gaskets. I think I will just trim off the tabs on the side gaskets so they fit flush against the end pieces. I will also go get some gasket cement for the block side and RTV for the pan side.

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Thanks for the advice about the tightening sequence of the oil pan bolts. I too have been doing it wrong all these years.
I was getting ready to install the oil pan today and had to stop to get some instruction/advice. The oil pan gasket is in 4 parts, 2 paper sides and 2 cork ends that fit in channels at each end of the block. The paper gaskets have tabs that fit into the channels the cork goes in. Is the installation sequence to first stick the side gaskets to the block with the tabs in the channels then install the cork ends flush against the paper? Or, should the cork ends be flush against the block and I trim off the tabs on the paper side gaskets? Also, would you recommend putting a thin layer of RTV gasket maker on both sides of all the gaskets?

I got under the car and really started looking around. I pulled the lower torque converter cover and it was dry in there. I think it would be a mess in there with oil being slung all over the place. I think the oil that was coming out the weep hole in the cover seeped in from either the oil pan gasket or valve cover gaskets. It didn't seem there was enough oil on the block running down to create the slick under the car but there must have been. I'm in the process of installing new valve cover and engine oil pan gaskets. Here are some pictures of what I saw under there. I'm so glad I don't have to mess with the rear main seal. I did find a "sneaky pete" on ebay for $25.00 in case I needed to replace the rear main seal. Thanks everybody for your input. Brian

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