Have you viewed the car personally? The 1940 model year, was a single model year, with the seniors being made in smaller numbers. So many parts were used for just one year. Many times they are hard and expensive to find. You need someone with you that is familiar with a 40 senior. Making sure all original parts are there. Example, the stainless molding you see around the windows, are held on with very small clips that have probably not been made in fifty years, they are most certainly rusted, and may break when trying to remove the molding, in all my years I have been able to find just one or two of these clips. (Perhaps someone makes them now).
If it is the long wheelbase, only Steele makes the rubber, it is around 1000 for a pair, and they require butting sections together, which is highly not recommended. The molding you need for the side of the running boards is around 400 dollars. IF you need a new plastic dash it is over a thousand from Troosh. And you finish and attach it. etc.,etc.
Much of the plastic I machined myself, and I taut Troosh how to make the molds for the dash pieces.
Anyway, know your car. If the car is mostly correct, just might be a good deal. What model is it?

Over the years while restoring the 40 kept in mine, that this is a driving car, knowing that the front fenders are going to get road dings, the seats and carpets getting a bit dirty from use, etc. But, would not have it any other way. If you have seen the 1940 Packard video "The Way Ahead" and remember hands off at 104 mph, on a few occasions have done that for just a few seconds, to show fellow collectors what a real car can do, from 1940. Haven't done that for some years now, and don't intend to do it again, but do take pride in passing the modern day imports on a steep uphill grade.

Having a senior 1940 myself, can tell you this can get very expensive. Unless it is a high dollar convertible, and you can do most of the work yourself, be very careful. I was fortunate to get mine out of a barn in southern California over twenty years ago, so while needing restoration, there was no rust, and no body work. Most everything there. And at that time most parts available. Not so today. And when you can find the part, because it is a senior Packard it is going to be triple the cost. I am fortunate enough to have a small machine shop at my house, and can fabricate and do most of the work myself. Remember these take continuous tinkering to keep on the road. But, when right the 40 senior is the best driving car on the road.

Thanks see it. He shows an ignition bracket, and I have a couple Bosch, etc., coils but they would not mount correctly on the engine head. Might give that a try, less expensive, maybe?

Decided it is a good time to get a back up ignition coil for my 1940 1808. Wondering if they are available anywhere. Have not seen any on ebay. It is the type that has the ignition coming off the bottom, and has a welded on bracket that bolts to the side of the head of the engine.

I believe what I used years ago, and I still see available on ebay, was a heavy duty L shaped bar with a small but strong hook at the end of the long side of the L (or top), it was small enough to work behind the metal of the seal and then you can bang on the base (or bottom) of the tool with a hammer. On occasion I would take a cheap or old beat up good sized standard screw driver, heat and bend the tip so you had about half an inch bent tip to work behind the seal, using a hammer on the shaft of the screw driver.
The last time I had to do this was around fifteen years ago, but this is what I believe I had to do on the 40

You should be able to get an inexpensive dial gauge and stand from an industrial supply house to check run out. You probably can get the gauge and stand for under forty dollars, and you will have them to use for many years to come on other projects. Maybe get them used from ebay for much less.
It's been years since I have checked axle run out, but as I remember if you use multiple shims don't put them all on the same side
If I am wrong please correct me.

Talked with my friend Roger (you remember growing up with packard). They just finished re restoring a 34 LeBaron boat tail speedster. He specifically remembers not having a problem getting it out or in. Actually when it came time to put it in they already had the transmission mounted. He said it just barely made it, with very little clearance. So he says you should not have to jack up the body.

And don't forget to check axle end play. Make sure you have approximately the same amount of shims on either side. Tap the axles to one side, then with a dial indicator see how many thousands end play there is and consult the manual.

Don't have their number handy, but you can look them up. I have been using A & P Bearing in Canoga Park, Ca. for over twenty years and just about always manage to come up with what ever bearing or seal I need. And usually a lot cheaper.
I believe they are on Canoga Ave. If you can prove you are some sort of garage the discount is bigger. Here is where your pest of a brother in law or neighbor comes in handy.
Many times just call with dimensions and they can help
Thanks.