By the way, I have an A.R.A. system with a York compressor and trunk unit but it's from a 1953 Mayfair so must be 6v.

Good to know! I had a look at the V2 compressor in my 1965 Imperial LeBaron to see if it would simulate Lehigh but with the clutch in front of the pulley, I doubt it would work. The Imperial has dual front and rear air so it seemed powerful enough but probably would not be adaptable.

I do have the lower pulley. In fact, I have the entire lower vibration damper but I'm not sure if I have the longer bolt. I think I do but I'm not sure.

On the other components, I have the large pieces but I'm missing the dash switch and small parts, brackets, clamps etc. but what I do have will likely work only as patterns. The plenum, for example, would need to be remade and the receiver/dryer, being exposed as it has been, would not be usable at all.

Thank you Howard! That looks great and likely what I would end up doing should this compressor not be rebuildable. Using the original bracket and holes is a perfect solution! Did you happen to make a blueprint ar dimensioned drawing for the adapter?

I'll have to keep an eye open for factory tubes as I'm not keen on making my own, and to find the longer bolts that are stock. I don't really mind replacing them later with hardware store bolts but only after I see what the originals looked like.

Looking at it again today and armed with the information supplied above, I see what you mean! I'm missing the longer screws so will have to find some.

Where does the relocated oil filter attach and what are the threaded holes for on the passenger side of the bracket, which are in raised bosses? Are they for the filter and does anyone have a pair of the steel lines for it in the new location, along with the bracket attaching screws?

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That is an unknown so far as just keeping it original is the main thing. Once the rest is in place, then I'll do a restoration on the whole car.

Yes, I have the idler somewhere, and the lower pulley.

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I'll have to take another look tomorrow as I realized that my photos don't show the end of the bracket with the set of holes that prompted the question. There is a large section sticking out toward the fender that is at a slight angle to the water outlet attachment that I was questioning so perhaps it's a different bracket, even though it attaches to the compressor in the same manner.

It's a factory compressor, not aftermarket, and by the appearance of the bracket, it mounts on the driver side. I've not actually tried it in place but it appears that some of holes line up with thin air (pardon the pun).

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I'm here at my Oregon shop for one more day and am finally looking under the hood of my 1956 Clipper Custom sedan trying to decide where the compressor attaches. Apparently the oil filter must be relocated so I'll need whatever it takes to do that but on the compressor itself, how does it attach? I see that one end surrounds the coolant water outlet but then what? I can see nothing to match the other end of the bracket so am I missing a support? I have only what is attached to the compressor.

The head on my 1954 Patrician was welded decades ago without problem but as I recall it was to fix corrosion under the steel outlet tube. After the welding, I simply milled it flat again. Putting steel together with aluminum, then adding water, is a sure way to create electrolysis so I wonder why an aluminum outlet wasn't also used.

However, now that the car has been sitting untouched for decades I see there is much corrosion on the head so it will likely have to be replaced and I would prefer to use the original aluminum head or an authentic reproduction. I don't want a finned racing head. An aluminum water outlet that looks like the original steel one would also be great.

Yes, that's true that the 110/120 had a smaller feather than the others but with an exception. The 120A had the larger one.