Ok, groovy guys and gals.
Go to the Bob Neal book on the '48-50s , pp 172 &173, and you can see the model without the door wood. Nice metallic green one.
The bigger issue is that was a '49 (23) model listed as 2373.
So "door wood delete" was apparently done at some point, by hook or crook.
Doesn't solve the history of this particular motor car.
with it's 2293 pedigree. But I've seen so many things done after a car is that old, who knows what's real? Many think they do, but without documentation, all hearsay.

1948 2293 = Std 8 Pass sedan.
I guess the question is was the "wood" normally added over the steel door skin? If so, no rare bird biggie here. Most likely for me.
I'd suggest, research if "door wood delete" was an option/other photos*.
If the wood failed for some reason even 20 years after and was removed and resprayed, by now the paint would be indistinguishable from factory. Easy to see the condition of the remaining wood.

The "faux" woodie became more common than "all wood" as they got away from the early '30s up woodies as woodworking was no longer used in body construction. Eventually, they even went to faux vinyl covering between the slats well after Packard died - Pinto's, Chrysler vans, etc. '48 is a little early for that technology. Even the slats weren't wood by then.
I've only seen 1-2 of these on TV going to auction, just not a long wheelbase kinda guy but a soft spot for a '30s woodie.
* - need period photos unfortunately b/w because sales lit was still artist rendered in this era.

If I recall correctly, the tail light harness runs down along the interior under the carpet inside rocker or trans tunnel into the trunk. Haven't worked on that one in a few years. Manual here, not sure where the ultramatic wiring comes from. Should be on a wiring diagram in the shop manual.
After a second peak, reading the addtions, those wires on the Unity are not circa '50 materials, so a dead give away, it's after market. Not a big deal to parallel a second light off the one. Just has to be wired parallel or one will be dimmer.

Assuming the battery and gauge are good, and it's actually not "overcharging"(boiling), then either it's not getting high enough voltage to charge, the contact for the "shutoff" coil is non-functioning - or both. Disconnect the battery and take the cover off the VR and inspect the contacts.
Like Ross said need to measure the voltage when it's charging.
I would suspect over time after several such episodes the battery would discharge and not start. Must be a new battery. I like to install a voltmeter in all my generator cars to aid diagnosis. Those charge/discharge gauges work off current flow and don't tell much about system health. They're more for "show".
Any auto electric shop should be able to diagnose and fix this
rather inexpensively, if not swavvy or DIY.

Check the bulbs/sockets first. Check socket ground for continuity to chassis ground.
Make sure the car/power is "on" or engine running/brake set. Start at the switch and turn it "on". Then track down wiring with a VOM looking for voltage to the light. There are other ways but need more tools.

Instead of a mechanism to turn them on from the reverse lever, it's just a manual switch. I'd forget to use it...
They had all sorts of gadgets and gizmos back in the day for things you didn't get from a factory car. I think "Unity" was a GE brand or associated co. Made spotlights, etc.

There's a large amount of info on this site in the home or literature tab. You'll want to get familiar with, like what you should call your model, so you don't get hammered on the fine details.(Rough crowd) There's wiring diagrams in one of the manuals. Might even be something on troubleshooting the blower in service?
Also, if you don't find under '50, '49 applies as some '50s are leftover '49s.(23 series)
I know I took mine out, it's on the shelf, when I dismantled but had the pass. sheet metal off, and don't recall how easy to access the fan with it on. I would suspect, if you can get to it, disconnect from switch and hot wire (reverse polarity universe (- = "+")) and see if it runs. Depending the condition of the wiring (mine was mouse munchies) energizing it could be risky. I recall Howard saying something in past about some of those switches being tricky too.

Since you're off-shore, send an email to info@rebuilderschoice.com
and inquire.

What you have now is the "modern" metric tire equivalent most use. Are you not satisfied with them? What are you trying to do?
Personally, I like the wider whites on these era, as they came with the "biggies". Just harder up keep.

I don't think you can go wrong, unless for concours, with the widest tires that will fit the rims(235?), not interfere with steering, as you don't have skirts or wheel well issues.
Radials will improve ride but suspension was made for bias so won't feel the same. In non-power steering situation, the narrower tread width is easier to turn.

A guessing game. Sounds age, damage, sitting related. Helps to put up on a lift so you can inspect underside since occurs while moving.
Inspect for any tell tale leaks/build up of grease, fluids, etc. Hoses/rubber parts can get damaged from brake fluid, gas, etc. put a cardboard under it while sitting.
Suspension rubber components, like sway bar grommets, ball joints, body mounts, etc. cause the "old car growl".
Brake shoes worn, wheel bearing, dry grease seal.
Spring or spring support moving.

Doesn't appear to be the shocks since moving the bumper/frame didn't produce unless travel distance related.
Helps to have someone outside and ride up and down the drive/street past to hear the noise. May sound completely different from outside the cabin. put window down.
Almost not able to pin point these type noises without sound /vibration equipment.
You have to judge just how much effort you want to put in to chase this - inconvenience. It's an old car and a bit tired since rebuild. Likely will have more noises in the future as well. May go away on it own as well. Part of the experience of owning. Post-war so should not be wood related.
eg;
I had a noise coming from the center bearing area of my HD 4x4 pickup. It would only make shudder noise/vibe after hitting a bump. The mechanic could hear on road test but not determine. They prophylactically changed the most likely center bearing with no result. $165 shot. I loaded the bed one day and the noise went away. All we could figure was the leaf spring had been compressed during hauling and didn't seat properly until it was re-loaded again. So hitting a bump or pothole, over extension, can trigger these weird noises.

Easy job assuming the housing/internal parts are good.
Just get the right rebuild kit.
I did the '49 myself in short order. Works fine. They usually send a procedure with the kit but believe in the manual which should be on here if you don't have one.