I've heard Flexseal works good at sealing auto tops of this nature, but don't have any first hand experience.

Jeff Dreibus of the Old Carb Doctor (located in Nebo, NC) recently rebuilt my DL Model 51 for my 31. He is very knowledgeable. My carb works fine after he went through it and replaced what needed to be replaced.

http://www.oldcarbdoctor.com/

Jeff Dreibus of the Old Carb Doctor (located in Nebo, NC) recently rebuilt my DL Model 51 for my 31. He is very knowledgeable. My carb works fine after he went through it and replaced what needed to be replaced.

http://www.oldcarbdoctor.com/

Yes, I see the shape now. Many thanks for your guidance.

The starter switch I have on my shelf is a Napa Echlin ST6. Looks like they're still available. Curiously, the switch cost $55 back in 1986 as charge receipt is still with it.

I'm finishing a 31 sedan and have these parts left over that I know not what they're for. Anyone know? They're about 12 inches long and have squared holes.

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  31 mystery part.jpg (23.93 KB)

For some reason, my photos and prior posts were deleted. Perhaps they were too large for the webmaster to endure. Just some info -- The copper calibration rod in the KS unit was completely oxidized causing the unit to be completely plugged. I had to take an angle grinder and carefully slice open the reservoir to retrieve the old calibration rod to place in the new reservoir so the gauge is accurate. For a 7th/8th series, the KS reservoir is 3.25", and most importantly, I measured the calibration rod to measure 2.5" long and .090 in diameter, roughly the size of household electrical conduit.

Have several washers on hand so that when you separate the generator from the adaptor (that needs to stay in place) you can place on the mounting studs and reapply the nuts so the adaptor stays put. I wouldn't even think about running the engine for fear of fouling the timing works and having to rip the front end of the car off to replace it all.

After several days of soaking without any progress, I decided to buy a new reservoir and sight glass from straight-eight. Nothing seemed to break through the corrosion/dried fluid. Looking forward to installing it today.

Well, I tried to fill the KS fuel gauge and I knew I had a problem when the fluid rose to the top of the reservoir without registering in the glass vial. I pulled the gauge out and deduced that it was all clogged up with dried fluid/corrosion over the last 35 years. I filled the vial and reservoir with brake fluid for a couple days without any success and just swapped it out with PB Blaster. I've read online some folks using muriatic acid, but was wondering if anyone has any success with clearing out the gauge with a secret sauce.