That looks the same as a 733 or 726 in which case you should give John Ulrich a call. I bet he has one of those from the 726 he gutted last year.
Todd

My 1930 733 was stripped of most accessories before I got it and one of the missing items was the horn. I have the horn bracket which is attached to the oil fill tube but the horn itself is gone. I bought a horn (Sparton SOS No.118) on eBay about a year ago that was advertised as a 1930 Packard horn but it is too large to fit in the bracket and too long to fit in the space.

I have two questions:

1. What is the correct horn?

2. (and) Does anyone know what the horn I do have is for so I can sell it to someone who needs it? It's in pretty good condition with no rust and just a small ding in the cone.

Any help appreciated
Thanks
Todd

Here's a link. I don't know anything about them though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WILWOOD-DISC-BRAKE-KIT-FRONT-41-56-PACKARD-11-75-DRILLED-ROTORS-POLISHED-CALIP-/400371352344?fits=Model:Packard&hash=item5d37fe0318&item=400371352344&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

Wow, that's a big "crack". You seem to be missing some metal around that valve but it looks like it can be fixed with a modern valve seat. Good luck.

I haven't had a lot of time to work on the car this last month but I did get some paint on the engine and today I got a call saying my starter and generator were ready to be picked up. All appears to be in order with the exception of the windings in the voltage regulator. Anyone know an antique regulator guru?

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Dell, check eBay, they have 4 or 5 books dedicated to your car up for auction right now. Very handy stuff.

The shaft that the arm is stuck on is tapered and splined which equates to a lot of surface area where the two parts meet each other. I had to use lots of heat (with an O/A torch) and oil to get mine off. I can't help with your bumpers.

One last thing, I would mark the shaft and arm with a punch or similar before taking it off. That way you'll know which set of teeth to align it with when you put it back together. Good luck.

Todd

I'm not buying it, all the VIN plates I've seen are hand stamped and the letter spacing is always off a bit. That plate looks to be engraved professionally and then bolted to the firewall from the inside.

That's Woody 1, she was started in 1974 by my stepfather Hugh Forman and his wood and metal shop students at Redford Union High school. I fist laid eyes on the car when I was 11 years old and thought it was the coolest thing I'd ever seen. He'd taken the car to about 80% completion and then life got in the way and didn't have the time or place to finish it. He gave it to me in the mid 90's and I didn't have the time or a place to finish it so it sat in storage until 2008. That's when I got a house with a 720SF garage. Not a huge garage but big enough to build a car in so I started by taking the car apart. I kept his wood body but decided on an all new chassis and motor. The new frame was constructed from 5" C channel that was left over material from the Ford double deck display at the 2007 Detroit autoshow. The engine came out of a 1974 XJ6 that I bought for $300 and I sourced the XK120 valve covers, fan and Mark X intake from eBay. The exhaust was a custom fab I did to mimic a WWI Liberty engine exhaust. The seats are reproduction as is the model A suspension and the 9" rear end was borrowed from a 1969 Bronco. The drive shaft is out of a CJ-8 Jeep and the front brakes are Buick drums over 1949 Lincoln backing plates. The car most resembles a Ford depot hack and is registered as such but the only Model T part on the entire car is the firewall. My stepfather did most of the woodwork in the 70's but I built the cowl and did the interior work in 2009. I drove it a few times this year and it gets some strange looks but it isn't what you'd call "practical". It's loud, fast and stinky just like a hot rod should be. The Packard is going to be very different; quiet, refined and almost stock although between you and me, I've been thinking about turning it in to a shooting brake.......

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I ground down the crankcase until all signs of the casting process were gone. I started with a 80 grit and worked it down to something like 250 and then finished it with Scotchbrite pads. It took about two weeks of grinding when I had time but it sure looks pretty.