I think I would remove the head and examine the area (head * block) for any cracks. I would clean and wipe down around the areas where the leak is then coat with a penetrating dye to look for cracks. If none are found, then I would reinstall the head with a new gasket. If you still have the old gasket, I would compare the new vs. the old.

Good luck and hopefully your problem is just a bad gasket. You might also want to check the head for flatness.

Thanks for all of your suggestions and inputs. As mentioned in some of my earlier requests for assistance, I took over this restoration from another person and that the car's intake had been converted to a downdraft carburetor. It has an automatic choke.

Going through all of my boxes of goodies I found two cables (22" and 34" long) and 1 switch to fill 4 holes. I saw the area for the map light, but did not find one. And that's what led me to pose my question.

Based on your inputs and poring over PackardInfo & Google photos (Couldn't find an Owner's Manual) here is what I'm going to try to accomplish. Try to find 2 switches like I already have or 1 switch and a starter button. If I can't find any, I'll buy new ones that I can make a bezel and knob that look like the one posted above. I'll install the shorter cable for a throttle cable in the red hole (Note that the linkage on the firewall has a place for it to connect for the throttle) and ignore the connection on the steering column. I'll install 2 switches in the green holes and wire as per Dave (32model901). The blue hole will either be filled with a switch and will power lights that I'll install in the glove boxes or a starter switch that will be non-functional. The longer cable will go into my "Not To Be Used" box.

If the previous had not already had the dash, and window frames wood grained or if I hadn't, I would fill the hole in.

Dave did you re-magnetize the magnet or have it done by someone else?

Any other thoughts are more than welcomed and are encouraged.

Thanks Again

I'm working on finishing the wiring on the dash and its installation. I'm assuming that the green circled holes are for the throttle and choke (see photo). Which hole (upper or lower) is correct for the throttle?

I only have 1 switch in my boxes of parts that seems like it would be for the dash (see photo), but it does not fit the red hole in the instrument panel. Is it a switch for this Packard and if so, what is it for? It is a pull switch and has three positions.

What goes in the blue circled hole? In addition, is there a chrome or nickel plated bezel that goes over the yellow circled hole for the keyed ignition?

It appears that the previous owner had both the clock and speedometer rebuilt. However, neither on seem to work. Does anyone out there have any recommendation?

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Dave,

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I took off the rear cover of the generator and it looks like it has been completely rebuilt. The 1st photo was a portion of a larger electrical schematic that I found (don't remember where now), but here it is.

Instructions on how to adjust would be appreciated.

Thanks Again

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I'm near the end of installing the wiring harnesses (Rhode Island Wiring Services). The electrical schematic shows regulator and relay (see attached photos). On my car's generator, a OD CI-1005, there is a device. Is it correct that this functions as both relay & regulator? At least that is what I came up with after reading a paper published by "Uncle Milt the Instructor".

The reason that I pose this question is that in one of the boxes of goodies that came with the car there is a voltage regulator (see photo) and I want to ensure that I'm not missing something. After all, I've been told that the only dumb question is the one that is not asked.

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Does anyone out there know when Packard go from steel over wood to all steel construction. Or was wood phased out over a year or two?

On a side note I like my rubber goods from Steele, but I order them through Max Merritt as they offer it at 10% off.
I was completely happy with the window run channel that I got from Rubber the Right Way and the price was ~$1 a foot less than most places. I live about 150 miles from them, but one of the grand kids live near them. So we took the RV down for a visit and picked it up to avoid the shipping.

On my '32 I used flexible run channels from Rubber The Right Way for everthing. I selected it after getting samples from about 6 suppliers. Theirs was selected because it looked the most like the original felt lined with chrome bead that was in the car and the price was great too.

Even though I used flexible it works great on straight runs. On the '32 it gets nailed at the back of the channel to the wood. I used a short ~1 inch stout nail. If you nail, make sure that it goes straight in and that the head is flat and is buried in the the lining. I think you will want the channel to go down to where the bottom of the glass is or maybe a inch or so less when the window is lowered.

I can appreciate your challenge with putting together a "Kit Car" as mine was in the same condition. When I picked it up the beds of two pickup were full of boxes and car pieces with one of the trucks pulling a trailer with the car. The car was also stuff full of parts.

I can not thank the members who use & support PackardInfo enough. There is no doubt without them I would have gone gray sooner and be completely bald by now.

I like the process of turning an engine over that has been sitting for a long time to get oil throughout the system. I avoid using a starter for more than 5 seconds without letting it cool down for 5 to 10 seconds before turning it over for another 5 seconds.

Not sure if the "5 Second Rule" is necessary or not. It was something a long time mechanic told me 50 plus years ago. As I remember it was my auto shop teacher in high school.

He was in his mid 40's at the time and decided he want to teach, got his credentials, sold his shop and got a job with the Los Angeles School District. When I asked him why, he said the hours were better, the job was cleaner, didn't have customers to content with and that he could send students that got out of control to the Boy's Vice Principals Office. I took several night classes from him on repairing hydramatic transmission.

Check for loose connections in the wiring - especially the grounds. An area where rust can be the culprit on any old car that has an electrical problem.

I would stay away from strong acids like muratic or the strong bases like those found in oven cleaners when trying to clean up aluminum. For a do it yourself approach I would go with process mentioned above by by Dave (O-D).

I have also found that paint remover works wells on thinner grease deposits. Nasty stuff, but with any of the solvents wear glasses (or better yet splash googles), solvent resistant gloves and work outside (or better yet a respirator with organic vapor cartridges).

You might even want to have a go at it with a high pressure power washer as long as you have a good place to do it. Stay away from the machined surfaces.

Good Luck & I don't envy you in any way shape or form if you do it yourself.