The Alvan Macauley house at 735 Lake Shore
Grosse Pointe Farms.

http://www.gphistorical.org/autobarons/macauley/index.htm

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BigKev,

One method for adjusting these cold, courtesy of another.

Good luck if you tackle these hot, and running.

The last time I did this on a ninth series, hot, running and .004 for exh and int it took me two hours.

I'd like to know how they did it at the factory.

Regards,

Dave

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Jdee,

Good looking work on the Mother of Pearl in the video link!

A company I worked with a few years back had some interesting UV cure adhesives and coatings, their site:

http://www.dymax.com/products/coatings/index.php

I also ran across the following site, a good source of molding supplies for the professional and hobbyist.

http://www.smooth-on.com/index.html

I've also used fiberglass or chopped carbon fiber mixed in with molding resins to add strength. This same material can be purchased as a woven mat and laid into the resin, like building up a fiberglass body.

Regards,

Dave

Jdee,

Very nice work.....

Some of the material used for these molded parts was nitrocellulose or celluloid. The only material I've seen that is close to the old tortoise shell celluloid is now being made to repair guitars.

Sheets of this material can be found at:

http://www.grevenguitars.com/tortis2.htm

Regards,

Dave

'31 Roadster,

I've attached a few pictures showing where most restorers have placed these.

I haven't run across any factory pictures with enough detail to see if these decals were installed at the factory, or at the dealership.

One of the pictures shows an "original" engine. If you look closely you can see an oval decal that may be the Purolator one.

I've had good luck with filters supplied by Burr Ripley. Good quality and hard to tell the difference from an original. His filter takes a modern spin on filter inside.

One note on the oil filter, make sure you have the restriction fitting in the filter line. This fitting is a double male fitting with a small orifice, around .050 to .060 dia.

Since the filter in this series is bypass not full flow leaving this restriction fitting our will reduce the flow and pressure of the oil going to the engine bearings.

Great looking engine!

Regards,

Dave

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Excuse me....A Yank talking here....

I should have said valves, not tubes.

Cheers....

Gary,

I've had good luck getting NOS tubes and components to repair the radios from:

http://www.vacuumtubes.net/

http://www.oldradioparts.com/pg1.htm

You may want to find someone who has a tube tester who can check your tubes out. I found a good one on EBay for under $50 and it checks most tubes from the late 30's to 50's. Came with a built in tube chart for setting the tester controls. If you are looking for one make sure you get the tube manual or chart with the tester, it's useless without it.

One part that usually needs replacing in the radio are the capacitors. These may be shorted, open, or be outside their designed value.

They're are paper and mica type capacitors in these radios. The paper ones are usually cylindrical shaped, the mica ones are rectangular or square.

If you're comfortable doing electrical work they can be replaced with some soldering iron work.

A brief overview of what you're getting into:

http://www.justradios.com/captips.html

Regards,

Dave

PackardV8,

What I quoted was straight out of a '30's Motors Manual, in the Packard engine section.

Regards,

Dave

Hello Erwan,

Are the cam and crank sprockets and chain original or new old stock? If they are reproduction parts it is possible they may not match the original design.

I was able to find some information out of a 30's Motor's Manual for checking and setting the valve timing on '35 thru '37 Packard six's.

Possibly one of the other fellow members can advise you if this information is applicable to your '39.

1935, 36, and 37
Packard 120, 120B, 120C

Checking valve timing:

Exhaust valve should just close 5 degrees or two flywheel teeth after top center with tappet adjusted to .013 inch clearance. To check the valve timing, adjust No. 1 one exhaust valve tappet to .017 inch clearance and insert a .004 inch feeler gage between the tappet and stem. Turn flywheel until the feeler gage is tight and continue slowly until feeler is just released sufficiently to be removed by finger pull. Timing is correct if the pointer now registers with a mark 5 degrees after No. 1 UP DC mark on the flywheel.

Timing chain renew:

With No. 1 piston at TDC and No. 1 exhaust valve just closed, line up the sprockets, with the chain assembled, and slip them on the shafts. The timing marks should be nearest each other and in line with a straight edge placed across the centers of both shafts.

Regards,

Dave

K.R. Wilson made a good radiator flushing nozzle, with air fitting and stepped nozzle per Owen's previous post.

See:

http://krwilsontools.com/pages/tools/miscellaneous.html

Rad flushing nozzle.