Dave,

Thanks for the info & picture on the bearing. I pulled the inspection cover off of the transmission. The picture was invaluable in me determining that the car has a sealed throughout bearing.

So I'm going plug the opening on the transmission and seal the Bijur line. I was also able to get all, except for one of the studs installed. So that should finish off that part of the restoration.

Again thanks.

Dave & Tim

I would prefer a sealed throwout bearing. I've been debating as to what I want to do about it and the transmission. As you probably remember, I took over this restoration from another person. He had rebuilt the trans and did not plug up the opening for the Bijur leaving the original Bijur fitting installed. He also did not install four (1 at the top & 3 at the bottom) of the studs that go in the bell housing. When I tried to screw them in it appeared e things did not align properly.

Since I'm a one man operation, not in possession of a transmission jack and not wanting to buy one; I'm not sure that I want to tackle removing the transmission to replace the bearing. If I can't get the studs installed, then I'll tackle the issue, but I may just decide to do anyway if for no other reason than the bearing. I think I remember seeing a post of Dave's where you mentioned a Napa P/N.

Since the linkage was done as part the conversion from up to down draft. I kinda decided to make them myself as I like doing those sorts of things as opposed to trying to chase them down. As long as I have the lathe set up to do 32 threads per inch I may just re-make the choke one so it is in a S shape.

Dave thanks for you nice comments and Tim on your thoughts on sealing the line. I really appreciate all the assists I get from PackardInfo.com. I spend enough time on this project undoing what I've done so I can install something else that should have gone in before.

My only New Year's resolution is to post the progress on the car at least once a month. So we'll see how this works out.

As mentioned in the last post the windshield weather strip was trimmed and glued in with a black urethane adhesive. I was able to install the windshield and the urethane seems to do a great job at holding. I must report that it was an extremely tight fit.

It was discovered that the u-joint on the rear end side of the driveshaft was in bad shape. I bought the rear section from a drive shaft that Dave (32model901) had and will have it welded on to mine and have it balanced. Probably sometime in February

The glove boxes were cleaned up and painted. Then new cloth for them was installed. The large pieces of wood that goes behind the glove boxes was cracked so new ones were made. While I was at it, I also made the wood pieces that go to support the panels in the back seat area.

Started working on installing the dash. I received support from other users (see Dash & Oil line on a 1932 901) and I want to thank them for their help. The first step was to make the embossed board that covers the inside firewall. I cut a pattern by taping 8 ? by 11 sheets of paper to the metal firewall trimming and cutting holes in the paper as necessary. After the entire wall was covered with the small sheets they were firmly taped together and the entire mosaic pattern removed. This pattern was used to cut a test piece out of cardboard. After making several minor adjustments for holes, the firewall board was cut and installed.

I did not find some of the original carburetor linkage. So I made linkage to connect the automatic choke and the piece that runs from the firewall to the carburetor for the accelerator. I made and installed the oil line that runs from the engine to the firewall that eventually goes to the oil pressure gauge from 1/8" copper tubing. I'll send the line out in the future to get it plated.

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It looks the same as the one on my 901.

Dave,

Thanks - I've sent several emails out trying to find one. The picture should work out if I need to make one, but it would be a lot easier to buy it.

Tim,

Thanks for the photos. The previous person that had worked on the project had incorrectly installed the linkage on the choke to throttle and that the carburetor was missing the fast idle stop weight and screw. The screw hole for the fast idle stop weight had been taped when he painted it and the screw hole was not visible.

Dave,

thanks again. I can't say enough about the support I've received from this web site and especially you.

Interesting. Guess I should check to see what type carb. I've got on the beast. Problem may be solved, which would make it the easiest thing I fixed on the car.

Abe's Books appears to have used books of Glenn's for less than $5.00

Dave & Dave,

Thanks for the extra bit of clarification. I think that I have a pretty good grasp of what I need to do. I've looked through all of the parts boxes that came with the car, but it appears that I'm missing the choke cable.

Since the car was modified for a downdraft carb. I'm thinking that routing the cable down inside the firewall and bring it out at the bottom of the firewall doesn't make sense. O-D do you remember how the choke on your '34 is routed to the carb?

Oh well the weekend is over and I'm going to go to work a few
hours on Monday. So the project will have to wait until then.

Hope you two have a great week.

Dave,

Ahh I see the light - a choke cable forgot about that. It looks like the choke cable must go down in the slot in the board that is between the inner & outer firewall. How does the speedometer cable exit the interior cabin?

Again Thanks.