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Re: Caribbean top boot
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No thanks necessary. It was my distinct pleasure. Thank you! Hope you got to come to the Packard Dream Car/Concept Car Seminar too. There was a lot of extended detailed info that didn't make it into the book. AND those who were there got to view and hold the last Packard prototype wire wheel center hub cap (intended for 1957)! You can see how similar the hexagon on it was to that on the Predictor. Of course I'm sure you mean "no snaps on the rear seat backrest" on 1955 Caribbeans. And the tops (and possibly screws) are not original in the pics posted (at least not in the ones with the lowered top with no boot or the black top). Having had part ownership in a trim shop at one time, I can tell you, once an old convertible top is changed, it's 50/50 whether all the factory original screws, etc. get put back into original positions. But one thing's for sure: original tops for a Rose Quartz Caribbean would never have been black on the inside (as shown in pics 3,4,5). Should have been bright pink on the inner facings of the top. Nor would they ever have black pads as shown on the lowered top (should be pink too for this car). So that's just not an original top on the car in the photo. Which opens any fastener up to question. Also original tops for 1955 were in Orlon and it appears the top in the pics is vinyl in diamond pinpoint grain. Close, but no cigar. Now, when it comes to Caribbeans... certainly nothing could be prettier than the 1955 Rose Quartz theme. And yes, for 1955 the color of the center stripe extended down into the top well. So the photos showing pink in the top well are accurate. But the scale model running around in recent years with the pink boot is not. Thanks for the pics too. Of course the best possible example of a 1955 Caribbean to follow is Stanley Zimmerman's Howard Hughes/Jean Peters car. It is about as original and low miles as they come. This gorgeous unmolested Caribbean presently lives in the Automotive Driving Museum in El Segundo, California. And while the car is presently in a glass enclosure... uh... I do have... connections!
Posted on: 2017/6/28 20:50
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Re: Caribbean top boot
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That's because 1953 and 1954 boots are the same. 1955 is different and neither uses nor requires snaps on the rear seat. 1956 is different again.
Posted on: 2017/6/27 20:39
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Re: Caribbean top boot
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There was no "metal strip that holds the front edge of the boot" since the flap on the leading end of the boot was more than adequate to tuck and accomplish the goal for 1953-1955. The purpose of the boot was to finish and protect the inner facings of the top. Most people do not realize that convertible tops usually begin to rot from the inside out rather than the outside in. The inner faces of convertible tops were never meant to fend off weather, sunlight and moisture-all of which are death to the fabrics. Thus top boots are important to use. Every time a top is left lowered without a boot in place, it lays victim to UV rays, smog rot, moisture in the air, setting dew, etc. And for inner faces containing cotton or various blends of fabrics made overseas with sulphur dye residues, this is a nasty recipe. What happens when you mix sulphur with H2O? Anyway, the leather straps on Caribbean top frames were definitely not there to pull the top into lowered position in the top well. The straps were only there as an engineering overkill (as one might expect on a luxury automobile back in the day...) and as a prewar leftover. The actual purpose of these of these straps was to hold the lowered top snug and thus prevent possible rattles. Otherwise they really were not necessary. Such straps were more common in the older days of convertible tops when there were no power mechanisms and nothing to snug the topstack framework in lowered position. With a powered top, these straps really became unnecessary overkill. If your convertible top is not lowering fully or is wiggy-wagging with one side different in height to the other, the most likely reasons are as follows: ? mis-matched hydraulic rams ? improper hydraulic rams ? binding in top hinges ? improperly adjusted topstack frame and mechanism ? air bubble, gunk or dirt in electro-hydraulic power top mechanism ? leaking hose on hydraulic ram ? bent hydraulic ram rod(s) ? improperly installed or fabricated top fabric or pads One thing that most people who own and work on convertibles today never do is to "burp" the electro-hydraulic power top system. Just like with bleeding brake systems, this is a very important thing to do. In some cases it may actually prevent blowing a seal and if burp is done, will result in better operation and less strain on the system. By the way (and I have posted about this before) I stopped using brake fluid in electro-hydraulic convertible power top systems. Discovered automatic transmission fluid works just as well... with the hugely added benefit that it does not tend to turn into a solid that resembles blue rock salt after sitting for extended periods. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 2017/6/26 6:21
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Re: 56 Brake Light Switch location?
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The stop light switch on 1955-56 Packards is not merely a stop light switch. It is important to also remember this switch also interacts with the Torsion-Level suspension. Packards so equipped have an anti-dive, anti-squat feature which is only being imitated in more recent years by some new luxury cars.
This is why the original 1955-56 Packards with Torsion-Level suspension have a stop light switch with 3 electrical connector prongs rather than the customary 2. Just one more fact that proves how advanced these Packards were for their time! By the way, the stop light switch is located on top of the left-hand frame rail (driver's side) below the battery.
Posted on: 2017/6/21 12:02
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Re: CLUNK !
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I've posted a few times in the past on this matter. Most of the V8 Packards with trans selector lever that have this problem usually turn out to have a linkage out of adjustment. Sometimes from improper adjustments or just plain wear. When the arm on the trans itself reaches a certain position, it has everything locked in almost a straight line (think of a football player locking his elbow to give his opponent a "straight arm"). A trans locked like this can usually be unlocked simply by reaching under the car and pushing up on the linkage (be sure the car won't roll away while doing so). Usually pops right out. Problem is usually solved with adjustment and there was a Packard factory Service Bulletin issued on this matter. And yes, if anyone has adjusted (or mis-adjusted) the kickdown linkage, the trans linkage will be kittywhampus. As for the pushbutton system locking in Park position, one of the greatest tips on combatting this was given to me in the 1970s by my good friend, the late Joe Clayton-who owned a ton of V8 Packards-most of which were driven daily. One of the things he did was to ALWAYS go from Park to Neutral first. Then to Drive. This prevented over-travel of the pie segment and subsequent bending of contact fingers. I also learned that it seemed to prevent locking of the Ultramatic in Park. Neither Joe nor myself ever had a 1956 with pushbuttons ever lock in Park. By the way, I rebuilt two of my own Ultramatics after learning how from the old mechanic at Los Angeles Frost & French dealership... along with tips from the former Earle C. Anthony Los Angeles dealership service manager. Of course, doing all this with a 1956 with pushbuttons pre-supposes you have disconnected the "Automatic Park" feature. Many people, including tow-truck drivers have had the mistaken notion that 1956 Packards with pushbutton Ultramatic will be in-or remain in-Neutral... just because that button is depressed. Not so. Encountered more than one person over the years uttering choice language at the belief that the Packard they were moving was in Neutral just because that button was pushed. Fellow from one of the big tow companies was attempting to rock a 1956 Four Hundred out of Park and onto a flatbed while the owner uttered obscenities at the "awful Ultramatic" that he was convinced needed to be replaced by a Chrysler automatic trans. All that was wrong had nothing to do with the Ultramatic. In fact, the vehicle had a nicely working automatic Park system. And the minute the key was turned off... came the nice "click-click" sound and there it was... in Park-regardless of the fact that the "Neutral" pushbutton was depressed. But these guys didn't understand this system at all and blamed the poor Ultramatic for doing exactly as it was supposed to do. Anyway, I am sure that some of these Ultramatics do indeed lock in Park but I also believe that it is best to know the functions and features and factory remedies to these problems. All of the above can go a long way to reducing headaches-many of which are merely misunderstandings. Perhaps I am only lucky, but in all my years of owning and driving 1956 Packards, have yet to have one lock in Park on me. My 55 Patrician with selector lever and incredibly low miles was exception and locked in Park once after a carburetor adjustment. Used the factory Service Bulletin to remedy the issue. First unlocked it by reaching under the vehicle and pushing up on the linkage. Worked like a charm. Of course, the linkage was mis-adjusted after the mechanic fiddled with the carb. For what it's worth...
Posted on: 2017/6/21 11:34
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Re: Handy Siphon Pump for Removing Oil from Cannister
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I've always had an even simpler and cheaper and more foolproof method: been using a turkey baster for 40 years. ? Never failed me ? easy to use ? no hoses to fit or unfit ? oil removed is visible ? tapered end fits deep enough to snork out gunk at canister bottom ? cheap... even now under $6.00 ? available just about anywhere
Posted on: 2017/6/11 20:18
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Re: Packard Proving Grounds - New Donation
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One word: EEeeeeeGAD!!!!!
Posted on: 2017/6/5 10:13
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Re: towing / driveshaft removal
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Ahhh. Okay. Well, let me be even more forthcoming. As someone who has participated in North American warranty programs for 3 automotive OEMs, I can tell you, turning any transmission from the power output side instead of the power input side on any kind of cruise speed or extended basis in a dead tow is just plain begging for trouble. Sure, you can get away with it... for a while. But I knew a fellow who smoked nonstop and then would also go sit in his car and suck on an oxygen bottle when he would have one of his attacks. Wanna know where he is today? I've also known folks who insisted upon hooking up jumper cables the wrong way and bragged.."Heyyyyy... nothing happened! We ignored your rules and it worked anyway!" And then months later they have a blown diode or they are doing an alternator rebuild and can't understand why. Just because a bad result doesn't happen right away or is not immediately noticeable does not mean the situation is not harmful. And yes, as you said, on automatics whether cruising or not, things are lubricated up front when the engine is on. And there are other factors. Coasting while driving and just plain turning the transmission from the output side during a dead tow are two different things. Same thing for the front end-particularly on Postwar Packards. While the wheels will roll both directions, the entire front suspension and steering are predicated on the car rolling forward. Thus the term and principle of "caster." Ignoring this engineered-in feature can only be done at potential peril. Just like the wheels on the front of a shopping cart, going backwards at any suspended or high or lengthy duration just makes the front wheels want to turn around and go in the opposite direction. Yes, you can do it.... and even get away with it if you're lucky. But it does not mean it ought to be done.
Posted on: 2017/5/31 17:47
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Re: towing / driveshaft removal
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Over the years since the 1960s I have towed postwar Packards in every possible combination... flatbed, trailer, dolly, and tow-bar. In fact, I believe I must hold the world's record for tow-barring a Packard coast-to-coast (1956 Caribbean convertible from Florida to California in 1974). Did it while in college behind my 1963 Chevy Impala wagon.
A few of my recommendations: ? For anything over a few miles with the rear wheels on the ground, it is always, always wise (and easy) to remove the driveshaft. Just requires loosening and removing a few bolts at rear of shaft. Transmissions (whatever the kind, brand or type) were never designed to be turned from the rear to the front! To do so is just begging for trouble...maybe not right away, but trouble sooner or later. ? Never tow backwards with rear up and front wheels on the ground. VERY dangerous. The real reason especially on power steering cars is that slop can easily exist with the power steering ram-either from lack of pressure in the system or from leakage and other reasons. This slop combined with the forcing of roll direction against designed-in caster (think of the front wheels on a shopping cart) can make the Packard go wiggy-waggy and then ultimately out of control. The end result could be a wrecked car and even wrecked tow vehicle. And it HAS happened. ? For ANY towing, but especially if flat-bedding, be sure to turn off Torsion-level suspension on V8 Packards. Otherwise the poor car will be trying to react to changes in level and being tied down. As a result, things will either become more tight or more loose... and that's if you don't end up breaking something or bending something. If the car becomes more loose... you know what can happen riding on the back of a truck at highway speed! And by all means, never allow the tow guy (no matter how surly) to use frame-hole tie-downs on the frame or J-hooks on your torsion bars. Either of these can have a nasty result! ? If using a tow service-no matter how professional-always know your Packard and how to tow it. Never assume that the tow guy will know the facts about towing your vintage car. ? If towing in an enclosed trailer, again, make certain the Torsion level on V8 cars is switched OFF. AND make dead certain that any Packard is well tied down so it will not bounce. I have more than one friend with roof and side body damage. This was due to being towed in enclosed trailers without sufficient tie-down done or with Torsion-level ON and attempting to counteract bumps and jostling in the trailer!
Posted on: 2017/5/31 9:33
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Re: Gear selector stuck
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There was a set of factory Service Bulletins issued regarding this problem. Can sometimes occur when linkage is worn or out of adjustment. More rare with a 1956 transmission since the arm on the transmission itself was changed in shape. But things happen over time.
Easy quick fix is simply to reach under the car from the driver's side (with the exhaust cool) and simply push up firmly on the linkage (make sure the car is preferably not on a hill and be sure the parking brake is working and engaged). Usually pops right out of Park position. I've seen many people try to King-Kong their selector lever into submission when stuck like this... even to the point of bending it into the shape of a letter "J"... but the simple method usually works the best.
Posted on: 2017/4/30 8:57
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