I'll be curious if Steele ever updated their molds to include the space for the ridges on the bottom. The ones I have from Metro are molded with the recesses in the bottom for the ridges.

The seating position in my car has always been a challenge. As in, I don't understand how shorter folks could have driven it in the past. It could be a combination of altered '38 split business coupe seats in the car paired with the original '37 seat tracks. Also, it has a lot of recline, so I can't even see the fenders while driving, and I'm 6'4". However, some of the Service Counselors/Letters have noted several instances of adjusting the seat height and position using a wooden spacer wedge.

So, I made 1" hardwood spacer blocks under the rear of the tracks. This dramatically changed the recline angle to something way more standard/comfortable. But this left a large gap between the back of the seat and the plywood package shelf and bulkhead when the seat was all the way back. So, I moved the tracks back several inches and drilled new holes through the floor. The existing holes were not original as the floor was replaced in the recent past, and when it was done, someone used the woodworking threaded inserts into the wood floor to accept the seat track bolts. I used longer bolts, which were needed anyway in the rear due to the spacer blocks, and went all the way through the floor. Then I could use large, thick grade 8 fender washers on the underside, which, to me, is infinitely better than those aluminum threaded inserts.

Now, I have more legroom and can see the fenders while driving. My wife no longer has to sit on a pile of pillows to see over the dash while driving.

Please share the calibration and cleaning steps as I am pretty sure mine is off 30-40 degrees. Thanks!

Yes, the rubber covering was standard. The ridges are there as the rubber was vulcanizing over the metal in a mold. So not a separate cover that was glue down. Also the ridges make running boards stronger.

Your exhaust routing looks good to me.

B-Pillars are finally sorted, and the weatherstrip was installed:

I found these on Amazon. 2-1/2 OD 1/2 ID. Probably too big.

https://amzn.to/43Rq5a4

Quote:

Great to here it made it safely!

I had shims on both sides of my '54 when disassembled.

*** TOP MOVED TO PRE-WAR FORUM ***

Does anyone have an old 120/115 header bow that could be used as a pattern? I'm not happy with how my header bow turned out, and I need an original to copy the dimensions from.

Or, at the very least, a tracing made from the flat backside (the side facing towards the rear of the car), which will give me the overall flat dimensions and elevation. I think the one I came up with is just not tall enough when compared to others I have seen.

In other news, I got the windows in, and it helped move everything forward. The glass frame now sits against the division bar window channel with no gap. I also moved the entire vent window assembly as far forward as I could, but I still needed to make a slight relief cut in the wood B-pillar at the very bottom to sink the channel in a little bit, as it was still making contact with the window frame in that corner.

I also remade the front carpet. I needed the carpet to go up higher on the firewall and also need to cut back some of the firewall pad I made up to give more gas pedal clearance. Luckily this carpet is fairly inexpensive.