You may have worn bushings on your suspension, which will cause the body to "teeter-totter" on the suspension.

Classic & Exotic Service in Troy MI has reproduced this hose, all parts are US made, grey nickle plated just like the original.


Packard part number: 228754

https://classicandexotic.com/store/p-4481-1935-36-packard-super-eight-fuel-pump-inlet-tube-assembly.aspx

It would appear that it bolts to the block on the back side of the generator tensioning arm, if this illustration is correct. Be sure to only use a braided flat cable, as shown in the illustration. Do not under any circumstances use 12V rated, smaller gauge round cables from the auto parts store.

https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual5154/Electrical_VIII.pdf

This is usually due to the telescoping shafts that surround your steering column getting gummy, or having a physical change to the point where they are binding on the column shaft. The only method I know is to pull the whole column, take it all apart and make everything right internally. I wish I could say "spray some WD-40 down there" but it doesn't work that way. Most of those columns haven't been apart ever, and might just need some attention.

We have just completed a very faithful reproduction of the '35-'36 fuel pump flex line, I'll post a link to our website when it is ready to market.

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What year/model are we talking about here?

That's why I make all new fingers. I figure the owner only want to go though taking the actuator off the car once.

Have you looked at the thrust bearing in the worm gear portion of the actuator? Those corrode and the balls freeze in the race on some units, maybe because of climate.

It was an idea that came out of southern California in the 1970s when "you can't get parts for those" (transmissions). The Torqueflite used is very specific, like 1970-1974, at the time those specific Chrysler transmissions and parts were readily available, now days--less so. The kit was pretty jakey looking, this huge aluminum ring around the bellhousing on the trans, this flanged collar that couples the engine to the torque converter on the T-F. The Torqueflite sat crooked, at an angle in the car in order to make it fit.
These days we either fix the Twin Ultramatic, as there are people (hint: NOT your local trans shop that knows everything about every Big 3 trans) who know how to rebuild them to work correctly, or there are other modern trans adaptions that are a world more professional looking. There is a guy in Texas who adapts GM 700R units to the Packard engine, milling out the top half of the bell housing (among other things) to make a direct bolt up.
The Torqueflite 727 is a really fine transmission, and they took a lot of punishment, but the Packard retrofits I saw just looked like the amateur hour.

That is perhaps the worst idea I have heard yet in regards to these. The button assembly that came with the car is backlit, and the mechanical interlock feature is beautifully made. There are enough of them in the world that for a little over $100 you can install a brand new one and get a long life out of that. If the idea of the contacts bother you that much a simple retrofit of modern switches could be made to work.

The chrome thing is a plumbing standoff from a building I was re-habbing 25 years ago, I route the logic harness though it for final testing to hold it out of the way.
The board itself is a laminated maple dresser top. Back when I owned a pick up truck I discovered that your friends all call you when they need something moved. A friend wanted to take these two dressers to a local unsupervised dumpster to dispose of, and I latched onto the laminated tops as they were clear maple. One became this test board, the other became pipe organ parts.