Over the last few month I have been working to mount a modern Dorman power window motor to my window regulators. I believe RH did the same thing in his project blog. That's where I got the idea. The difference is, I do not own a lathes and its been 30+ years since I have used one so I was not able to make some of the parts that he did.

I probably wasted $100 on parts through trial and error but I finally got it mounted and it fits in the door. I even tested it nearly 300 times before it went into the door and had no problems. I just made so many modifications that I did not bother to record much info. As I assemble the second regulator I will record what I do and post it here so, it is going to take multiple posts and some time to complete.

I have all the wiring diagrams that Howard posted to RH about the relays and more. I started out trying to use the cheapest Dorman motor I could find ($25), pictured below. I believe it's the same one RH used. I did NOT have any luck with that motor.

The gear on that motor was so large that I could not find anything to fit over it and still fit into the opening on the regulator. I then toyed with the idea that I could remove that little clip on top of the gear, remove the gear, and then use that shaft to power the regulator. As it turns out, that shaft does not turn. It is pressed fitted in the back half of the motor housing. This motor has gears within more gears to make it work.

So, I searched through the huge Dorman catalog for another suitable motor and took a chance on one. I got lucky with it and it worked. I was lucky again that it was less than $50. Many of those motors are well over $300 each.

I’ll cover all that info in future posts but the only part I really had to fabricate was the plate to mount the motor to the regulator.

Attach file:

---

  20230827_110944_resized.jpg (77.06 KB)


  20230827_112152_resized.jpg (84.65 KB)


  20230827_112555_resized.jpg (46.71 KB)


  20230827_112555_resized.jpg (46.71 KB)

Price lowered to $85 plus shipping to your zip code.

It's good to be lucky.

I already have the lockup wired exactly as described in this video from Monster Transmission.

I also remember replacing the pressure switch but I do not know if there is a difference in the switch that I have and the one in the video. I already have everything else in their kit so I am not going to pay $100+ just for their pressure switch. It should work as it is, I can always change it later if I have to. I just need to pick up a new gasket.

The image shows the valve body of the 700R4. A. is the location of the lockup solonid and B is the pressure switch. The harness runs between the two.

Attach file:

---

  20230825_114518_resized.jpg (191.44 KB)

Last post of the day.

Removing the pan will not be as simple as I thought (it never is).

The new cross member is covering 3 or 4 of the bolts on the pan. Now I have to support the tail end of the trans and drop the cross member.

On the bright side, Howard will finally get that diagram of the 700R4 cross member that he asked for a long time ago.

Attach file:

---

  20230824_145113_resized.jpg (238.63 KB)

I rebuilt that whole PS pump a couple of years ago so the seals should be good. I will check the reservoir as you suggest in a little while.

As for the transmission. I really like that kit from Monster Transmission with the external pressure kit, but that kit will not work for me.

There are two different cases for the 700R4. One of them has test ports (Image #1 below) and one without test ports. Guess which one I have (image #2).

Monster Transmission has a fix for my transmission as well, but it is all internal. The problem is that I have already done the internal work, but it was so long ago that I am not 100% certain how I did it and that plays a part in how it needs to be wired up now.

Soooo, I am going to do the right thing and re-check my work. That means dropping the pan. Fortunately, that is all the further I have to go. Also, I never filled it up. It only has two quarts in it, and I replaced the original pan with one that has a drain plug so I can avoid the whole mess on the shop floor part.

Once I see how the lockup is wired, I'll know my next step. I may just go ahead and order Monsters internal pressure kit and just switch out my work with their kit. Either way I still must drop the pan. If I do, I'll post some links to parts and videos.

Attach file:

---

  700R4_WithTestPorts.png (1,002.51 KB)


  700R4_WithoutTestPorts.png (798.55 KB)

I have a slow leak in my power steering pump. It is not coming from either hose.

It pools on the base of the mounting bracket. Might have to pull the whole thing off.

Attach file:

---

  20230823_091745_resized_1.jpg (262.99 KB)

I do not disagree with you Howard as you have way more knowledge of all the electrical stuff than I do but the relay is for the pressure switch not the solenoid.

Monster Transmission has an interesting transmission kit for units that already have the lockup kit installed internally (like mine). They mount an external pressure switch into the 4th gear port and wire it so that you can turn it on while on the highway and when the 4th gear kicks in it will engage the lockup on its own. Then when pressure drops, it will disengage the lockup. For local driving, around town, you would not even turn the switch on. This kit uses no relay at all.

Trying the wiring diagram again.

Attach file:

---

  lockup1.png (299.16 KB)

It will not allow me to upload the diagram right now. I'll try again later

I dug around some more and found some notes I made in a 700R4, rebuild book. It wasn’t much but was enough to jar my memory, somewhat.

I did the trans rebuild in 2016. This included a new pressure switch & solinoid for the 4th gear lockup that is normally computerized. I had never done a trans rebuild and so I needed a step by step DVD for most of it. The lockup mod was pretty straight forward once you understand what is going on.

For those of you that that do not know, the 700r4 was designed to work with a computer (CPU) in mind. The CPU controlled the gear lockup. Of course we don’t have a CPU.

In 2016 there were only a couple pre-made kits for this mod and they were always sold out. Today, more companies have got involved and the kits are pretty easy to find. I will not be buying a kit since half the work was completed 7 years ago. It's not a big deal, all I want to do is manually provide power to the 4th gear lockup solenoid. This solenoid is only used at highway speeds when you want the over-drive.

In 2016 I was told that all that was needed was a power wire from the ignition ACC bolt to a manual on/off switch (on the dash) and a ground wire. Since that time it has been discovered that a wire run from the ignition provided more amps than needed for the job and sometimes caused the internal pressure switch to fail (I have no idea how common that was). So now it is popular to wire in a relay between the plug (on the trans) to the manual switch. The relay needs 3 wires, I found a wiring diagram below.

I have read that some guys like to place the manual switch somewhere on the floor to activate it when needed with a press of the foot. However, the most common location is on the dash. Truth be told there are many ways to wire this up. I am not sure how they all work but a Google search will lead you down all sorts of rabbit holes.

I have some new parts on the way now to complete this project we will see if I am as smart as I think I am.