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Board index » All Posts (fredkanter)




Re: engine question
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fredkanter
As I said, measuring the length of the block/head will determine if it is a 35-47 120 series engine or a 40-54 288/327/356/359 engine. The later engines are all the same length and all take the same head gasket. The 288 and some 327's are 5 main, other 327's are 9 main as are all 356 and 359's.

All of these engines can be installed in all 8 cyl 40-54 Packards, if in a car that had a 288 it will take some mods.

The number cast into an engine block may indicate numerous years. The only way to accurately identify an engine is by the engine serial number which is on a pad just below the head and above the starter.

In 56 years we've never seen/heard of an incorrect casting n umber as they are part of the mold, nor have we heard of an incorrect serial number. Those stories are rumors in my estimation, sometimes to "justify" a wrong engine in a car.

Posted on: 2016/7/21 13:14
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Re: Identify this car?
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fredkanter
O-D, you are correct, the incorrect date I provided was misfiled in my brain under "mistakes" I did not give a year on purpose as I knew Packard did not use year designations back then.

Thanks for catching it, when I run for president I don't want that on my record.

Posted on: 2016/7/20 16:07
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Re: Identify this car?
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fredkanter
4 TH SERIES WAS THE FIRST SERIES WITH HOOD "DOORS", THE SERIES WAS INTRODUCED IN JANUARY 1927. FURTHER IDENTIFICATION IS CONFIRMED BY THE DRUM STYLE HEAD AND PARKING LIGHTS

SPECIFIC MODEL IS 443, 8 CYLINDER , 143" wheelbase. appears to be 7 passenger touting with an accessory top

Posted on: 2016/7/20 14:15
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Re: engine question
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fredkanter
"Seems (to them atleast) that it was a smaller engine, 5 main bearing 327. I called Kantor and they said the two blocks were different in length (makes sense) and that the 356 was about 3/4" longer. We measured the block and found it was the longer 356 but the serial number still indicated smaller engine. Hmmmm....Engine is now out for rebuild at different shop but you might call Kantor for the length comparison of the series"


Nobody here recalls that call and all of us in the Packard dept know that all 48-54 straight 8's are the same length and take the same head gasket. A minor difference in the overall length of the block does not determine which engine it is.

Posted on: 2016/7/20 11:26
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Re: Kanter's 1952 Packard Limo Restoration
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fredkanter
Today it was off to downtown industrial Newark to see Lou, a lifelong welder deluxe supreme. He's got experience welding cracked blocks and while he's can't give a guarantee he'll do his best.

Posted on: 2016/7/20 0:13
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Re: Grille emblems interchange ?
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fredkanter
One has a gold background, the other a black and gold background. forgot which is which
they interchange perfectly, congrats on figuring out how to use the parts book. neat, huh?

Posted on: 2016/7/18 22:40
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Re: 1941 Packard 110 - Water Pump Replacement
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fredkanter
Copper washers are used on the two lower bolts that attach the pump to the block. Part # 302770, see group 50.6660
dimensions 5/8 OD, 25/64 ID 3/64 thick. The old ones can be reused.

In case you cannot locate your local Packard dealer, a hardware store is a good place to find them. Using a non-authorized part will not void your Packard 90 day new car warrantee

Posted on: 2016/7/18 11:23
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Re: How difficult to install a Torsion Level chassis under a '53 Mayfair?
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fredkanter
Thanks for the offer Ross but I have the same problem as I do with the suggestion that I restore a Mercedes 300SL instead of my rust-orchard 52 coachbuilt limousine. I don't have a 53 Caribbean to sacrifice nor do I have a 300SL to restore.

Posted on: 2016/7/18 10:46
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Re: Muriatic Acid to clean engine cooling system
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fredkanter
All sixes 37-50 used a brass water dist tube.

All 120's 35-39 used one

All straight 8's 40-54 used one

In summary, all monobloc sixes and 8's 35-54 used one, no earlier or later cars did

Posted on: 2016/7/16 21:34
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Re: Muriatic Acid to clean engine cooling system
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fredkanter
It will not be feasible to use muriatic acid after you remove the freeze/core plugs and other items you mention. The acid/water you pour in the thermostat outlet will run out the dist tube and freeze plug openings instantly.
If it is to have any effect it must sit a while.

After the freeze plugs are removed the water jacket goes down over 1 inch. Scrape vigorously with a screwdriver and a coathanger, I found it full of sediment even after using a presssurewasher

I'm not a chemist but in reviewing the internet there are pros and cons. Most importantly it must be in a well ventilated area and goggles/gloves/ appropriate mask must be used

Posted on: 2016/7/16 14:21
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