The original 115C manifold has a sheet metal shroud on the side that connects to the small hole in the carb mounting flange.
I don't know what Packard did for the Carter that replaced the original C-G carb,

I just looked at the glove box from a 22nd Series Custom 8 parts car and it does show evidence of flocking. Also have one from a 2262 Deluxe 8 that has no sign of any flocking. Both have a texture on the inside surface that is sort of like a raised woodgrain pattern.

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An old Napa list that I have shows an AL-63 cap for the IGC distributor.

The silver part is a plug for the main jet nozzle passage. The plug has a slight taper and is driven into place. Carter calls it a rivet plug . There is a cross section drawing on the first page of the fuel section in the service manual that shows the metering rods and nozzle passage with the plug on the lower end.

A very light tap on the plug that is leaking may get it to seal again.

The 1951 fact book shows the same features for the 200 Deluxe as for 1952.
The Group GE items for the 200 are shown as No instead of Extra.

From the the sales data book for 1937, standard colors for convertibles were blue, gray, green, tan and black depending on paint scheme. Red available at extra charge with any paint scheme.

I don't know if it is still the case, but at one time the Firestone collector car tires were manufactured in New Zealand due to the high numbers of older cars still in daily use there. The original molds were shipped down there for this purpose.
Shipping might be costly but duty for the UK should be low.

Brian

The IGT distributors were used for 1940-50 Senior models with the 356 engine. The original Auto-Lite part number for the point set for these distributors was IGP-3028MS and they will not interchange with the points for the IGP series of distributors.

The exhaust manifolds are the same for both 288 and 327 engines from 1948 to 1952.
If it is the exhaust that is cracked then one from any of these years can be bolted up to the original 327 intake manifold.

It looks like you already have a jack under the lower A-Frame. If you remove the lower support arm pin and sway bar link the spring can be removed by lowering the A-Frame. The support arm, spindle and brake assembly should be held up in some way to prevent too much stress on the brake hose. A floor jack at right angles to the frame that can roll as the A-Frame arm is lowered will work best. You will need to have the car jacked up fairly high to do this.
It is indeed very difficult to remove the nuts on the shock absorber bolts with the spring in place.